Friday Feature 08/01/14: Massolino, Cappellano, Agrapart & Chandon de Briailles

Hello & Happy Friday!

On today’s newsletter we have some very special, very limited releases from some of the world’s great producers. Massolino and Cappellano in Piemonte, Agrapart & Fils in Champagne, and Domaine Chandon de Briailles in Burgundy.

All four producers are widely regarded to be at the top of their perspective games, and if ever there were a time to treat yourself to something beautiful and rare, here is your opportunity.

Have a Fantastic Weekend!

Craig & Sheb
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Cappellano

The wines of Cappellano are true insiders wines. Teobaldo Cappellano, the late father of winemaker Augusto Cappellano refused to submit his wines to publications if they were going to give them scores. Sadly, in the world that we live in, not being reviewed means largely being unknown by the many. I refer to Cappellano as insiders wines because those that truly dive head first to the world of Barolo seek out these wines, with great fervor. Rightfully so.

Cappellano is a tiny cantina located within the commune of Serralunga d’Alba. Insiders also know that Serralunga produces some of the most structured, age worthy, and fantastically complex Baroli.

Step inside Cappellano and you will see just a few small rooms with large Slovenian oak barrels holding inside some of the best Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto in Piedmont.

Almost the entirety of the fruit comes from the fantastic Gabutti vineyard, which is known by all those in the region as a first growth site. The vineyard itself neighbors Parafada, with mainly South and Southwest facing soils.

Today we offer very small amounts (which is always the case) of Cappellano Dolcetto, Barbera, and of course the two famed Baroli!

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2012 Cappellano Dolcetto d’Alba

Always one of the top Dolcetto of Piedmont.

$35.99 BTL – ONLY 6 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2009 Cappellano Barbera d’Alba

Not your average, Barbera, a powerful core with an elegant finish

$46.99 BTL. – ONLY 9 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2009 Cappellano Barolo “Rupestris”

The flagship Barolo of the house, all from the Gabutti vineyard.

$93.99 BTL. – ONLY 6 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2009 Cappellano Barolo “Piè Franco”

A microscopic cuvée that comes from ungrafted vines in the Gabutti vineyard.

$141.99 BTL. – ONLY 6 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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Massolino

This is the single most underrated producer in all of Piedmont. I never hear people in the business talking about this winery, even despite many accolades and recognition within the region itself.

Massolino is a historic producer located in Serralunga d’Alba. The winery was founded in 1896, and today the current generation of Franco and Roberto Massolino are producing truly epic wines.

Look at a map of the vineyards of Massolino and you can see why they are so successful. Not only is their Classic Barolo one of the two or three best in the appellation, and easily the greatest value, but they also own land in four truly fantastic, first growth vineyards, Parafada, Margheria, Parussi, and Vigna Rionda, which is where their Riserva comes from.

Perman Wine Selections is a longtime fan and friend of the Massolino’s and as such, we are able to offer you some of the outstanding 2009′s Baroli (as well as a few other great wines).

I was in Piedmont in June tasting at the winery, and these are easily some of the best wines I tasted while I was there. Don’t miss Barolo enthusiasts!

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2011 Massolino Dolcetto

Always one of my favorite Dolcetto.

$21.99 BTL. / $263.88 CASE – ONLY 5 CASES AVAILABLE

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2011 Massolino Langhe Nebbiolo

As good as a lot of Barolo I taste.

$29.99 BTL. / $359.88 CASE

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2009 Massolino Barolo

Probably the greatest value for a Classic Barolo, all fruit from Serralunga d’Alba.

$47.99 BTL. / $575.88 CASE of 12

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2009 Massolino Barolo “Margheria”

This Cru is all about elegance, the Burgundy of the Massolino cellar.

$88.99 BTL. / $533.94 SIX-PACK CASE

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2009 Massolino Barolo “Parafada”

A classic, right next to Gabutti, always needs time but well worth the wait.

$88.99 BTL. / $533.94 SIX-PACK CASE

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2009 Massolino Barolo “Parussi”

The recently added Cru. Powerful, with well-integrated tannins.

$88.99 BTL. / $533.94 SIX-PACK CASE – PRE-ARRIVAL, THIS WON’T ARRIVE TILL THE FALL

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2007 Massolino Barolo Riserva “Vigna Rionda”

The new release of one of the greatest wines of Italy. Tasted it in June, and still can’t get it out of my mind.

$124.99 BTL. / 18 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2006 Massolino Barolo Riserva “Vigna Rionda”

Offered this before, amazingly I still have some left, built for the long haul!

$124.99 BTL. / 9 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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Agrapart & Fils

Agrapart & Fils is a small grower house located in the village of Avize, in the Côte de Blancs, a sub-region of Champagne known for Chardonnay. The estate is compassed of 9.75 hectares and is now being fastidiously run by third generation brothers, Pascal & Fabrice. It is under these two men that the estate has risen to, in our opinion, one of the top three producers in Champagne today. Yeah, we said it!

These wines are not to be missed for any fan of grower Champagne. We get minuscule amounts each year.

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Agrapart Complantée Extra Brut N.V.

This is a field blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Arbanne & Petit Meslier, harvested and pressed together. It is rare to find Pinot Meunier & Noir, much less the accessory varieties listed above, in the Grand Cru of Avize. A wine of great finesse with a savory, herbal quality.

$88.99/BTL.
6 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2007 Agrapart & Fils “Avizoise” Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru

100% Chardonnay grown in the clay slopes of Avize. Rich and textured.

$131.99/BTL
4 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2007 Agrapart & Fils “Minéral” Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru

Taut and nervy, from two single parcels of 40+ year old Chardonnay vines: le Champ Bouton in Avize and Bionnes in Cramant.

$101.99/BTL.
8 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2007 Agrapart & Fils “Venus” Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Grand Cru

This is the top cuvée of the estate, made from Chardonnay grown in Avize from a plot called La Fosse. A remarkable sense of mineral and salinity.

$184.99/BTL
4 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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Domaine Chandon de Briailles

Based in the village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, Chandon de Briailles is making some of the best wines in the villages of Savigny, Pernand-Vergelesses, the prestigious hill of Corton. This wasn’t always the case, as Nadine de Nicolay and her children Claude and François have resurrected the once dilapidated estate. Over the course of 20 years they have transformed the vineyards from overcropped, weed-killer-bombed sites to organically, and sine 2005, biodynamically farmed vineyard sites. The beautiful fruit they received from the vineyards is preserved, as the family is careful in their usage of oak barrels, never using new oak. One other thing to note about Chandon de Briailles is their usage of whole clusters in the best vintages. This lightens the color of the wine, but adds to the aromas, which is what makes Burgundy so great.

2011 is regarded generally as a very good vintage, one of great freshness and purity, especially aromatically. Open and generous, you could cellar these wines for several years, but they are priced (in the context of Burgundy) to be enjoyed on a more regular basis than just once in a while, on special occasions.

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2011 Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses “Île de Vergelesses” 1er Cru

This is the flagship wine for Briailles, one that shows great aromatic complexity and gorgeous finesse, year after year. This is a classic limestone and clay vineyard parcel whose Pinot Noir vines are all 40+ years old.

$56.99/BTL.
8 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2011 Chandon de Briailles Savigny-Lès-Beaune “Aux Fourneaux” 1er Cru

Savigny may be all about finesse, but the heavier, clay soils in “Aux Forneaux,” give this a bit of tannic structure. This is not named for a warmer meso-climate, but rather a place where community bread ovens used to be.

$45.99/BTL
8 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2011 Chandon de Briailles Savigny-Lès-Beaune “Les Lavières” 1er Cru

From limestone soils, this is very mineral, very red fruit oriented, really elegant. Neo-classical Burgundy at its best!

$52.99/BTL.
8 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2011 Chandon de Briailles Corton “Bressandes,” Grand Cru

From limestone and clay soils, this has that rare combination of power and elegance. True Corton, and definitely Grand Cru!

$119.99 BTL. / ONLY 22 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2011 Chandon de Briailles Corton “Clos du Roi,” Grand Cru

Clay-limestone marls with a little sand. This very special Grand Cru is high on the slope, near Corton-Charlemagne. Superbly mineral and tannic in its youth, this wine demands age. One of the top wines of the hill of Corton!

$162.99 BTL. / ONLY 18 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

Posted in Friday Feature, Friday Features/Newsletters, Newsletter

Friday feature 07/25/14: The New 6 for $60 Something Sampler.

Hello and Happy Friday!

Hope you had a great week.

 

In Perman Wine News, Craig has returned from his Portuguese adventures. If you would like, he has posted a wonderful travelogue. You can access this Here, here and here. I really enjoyed reading these and hope you will too.

 

More updates will be added shortly.

 

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In other news, we wanted to let you know about a great event coming up at the highly-acclaimed and downright awesome Grace Restaurant.

 

Florent Baumard, one of the icons of the Loire Valley, famous for his Chenin Blanc-based wines from Savennières and Quarts de Chaume will be in Chicago on Friday, August 1st to preside over a wine dinner at Grace.

 

Grace has been doing a series of wine dinners in their private dining room, and they are a fantastic opportunity for wine and food enthusiasts to sit down at the table with a famous winemaker for an evening.  The space is intimate, beautiful and truly special.

 

Chef Curtis Duffy will be preparing a tasting menu that will pair with Florent’s amazing wines.  Expect 10-12 courses, and wine paired with each course.

 

PLEASE NOTE, THIS IS AN ALL WHITE WINE DINNER!

 

I’ve known Chef Duffy for many years, having worked with him at Alinea, and he is one of Chicago and the United State’s most talented Chef’s.  This will be a very special dinner!

 

The Details


Friday, August 1st – 7:00 PM Reception, 7:30 Dinner

 

Grace Restaurant – 652 W. Randolph St., Chicago

 

$285 Per Person for Dinner and Pairings – Exclusive of Tax and Gratuity

 

For Reservations – Please Call 312-234-9494

 

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It being the last Friday of the month (this one went quickly!), it is time to unveil another Six for $60-Something sampler!

This month’s sampler brings selections from France, Italy & Spain.

All of these selections are available by the bottle and the case, with the exception of one, but there is no better way to learn about a country than by trying a variety of its wines. We will take you all the way from Alsace to the western corner of the Languedoc, so hold on tight!

If interested in a sampler, simply stop by the store, or send us an email and we can coordinate delivery or shipping.

Craig & Sheb

 

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6 for $60-Something Sampler

 agnes

2010 Ravailles Frères Ermitage du Pic St. Loup Rouge “Cuvée Agnès”-Languedoc, France


We are big fans of the Ravailles brothers, who own and produce the wines of Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup.

 

You often see the words hermitage, ermitage, ermite or hermite on French wine labels; this refers to hermits, men who live alone, away from society, usually with religious motivations. Sometimes when I go home to a pile of laundry, unmade beds, and floors covered with dog hair, I too wish I was a man who lived alone, away from society!
The Ravailles family has been in the region for 1000+ years, but it is the current generation of Ravailles (brothers Xavier, Pierre & Jean-Marc) who have made the greatest progress in winemaking. Recognizing the significance of their high-altitude vineyards and vine age (averaging 40 years), the brothers made a shift from high yielding, industrialized co-op farming, to a more careful, organic vineyard management style.
The resulting wines are complex and full of depth, produced with very little intervention.
They make several wines based upon terroir; Cuvée St. Agnès comes from limestone soils, and although it is made of old vines Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre, this potentially beefy wine comes across with a bit of lift and aromatic delicacy, courtesy of those very soils.
$14.00/BTL. – DUE TO LIMITED AVAILABILITY, IT IS ONLY AVAILABLE AS PART OF THE SAMPLER, REQUESTS FOR EXTRA BOTTLES WILL BE FILLED AFTER THE DURATION OF THE SAMPLER
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cheminblanc
2013 Château de la Liquière “À Mi Chemin” Blanc”-Languedoc, France


Last month, on our “all Frenchie” sampler, we featured the rosé from this most affordable line from Château de la Liquière. And this month we have their delightful white. These are some of the young vines that will eventually go into Liquière’s Faugères Blanc, which they call Cistus. But for now, you can enjoy them in the bloom of youth in this bottling, for very little Euros.
The wine is composed of 30% Terret Blanc, 20% Grenache Blanc, 35% Bourboulenc (that just rolls right off the tongue!) & 15% Muscat. This is all planted on the famous Schiste soils for which Faugères is famous.
The wine is fermented at cool temperatures to retain freshness, and kept in tank for four months.
The ensuing wine is imbued with peach skin, pear and candied lemon peel. It’s aromatically pretty too, with flower petals, orange peel a hint of those tasty French hard candies, coated with a dusting of sugar.

 

$12.00/BTL.-$144.00/CASE OF 12


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hermanos

2012 Hermanos Torrontés-Cafayate Valley, Argentina


For about a minute in 2004, it looked like Torrontés was going to be the next Sauvignon Blanc, a crisp, fresh wine that would delight the masses and take over the world. It did not happen. Why?
There are several issues that blocked this global take-over. Quality could be quite variable. And there were several clones of Torrontés planted in Argentina, some superior to others. It was hard for a wine drinker to know which Torrontés they were getting: a clean, peachy, crisp delight, or something, well, more flabby and uninspiring.
On today’s sampler we are offering the former. Hermanos works in Salta, in vineyards upwards of 5000+ feet above sea level. The grapes enjoy an enviably short distance to the sun, and ripen beautifully, but then during the cool evenings high in the mountains, the vines rest, a process that allows for the preservation of acidity.
This Torrontés offer a peachy, cirtusy flavor profile, with a fresh, almost saline quality along with a creamy texture. It is both clean and thirst quenching.
$13.00/BTL.-$156.00/CASE OF 12


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casstellagrigio

2013 Ca’ Stella Pinot Grigio-Delle Venezie, Italy


We understand if the grape Pinot Grigio doesn’t excite you these days. One of those terrible Housewives of New York has an eponymous wine she promotes at every instance, and in the shadows of the Dolomite Mountains are some spurious looking vineyards where grow the grapes for a very famous, high-production brand that is pretty much the elephant in the room when it comes to Pinot Grigio.

So yeah, yawn city. We totes get it.

However, Pinot Grigio can be quite delicious and even complex, and yes, you can drink a well-made Pinot Grigio from the Anselmi brothers, that destroys the high-production brand at less than half the price.  The Società Agricola Anselmi lies in Pocenia, between Trieste and Venice.  This is a wonderfully fresh, crisp and fruit forward style of Pinot Grigio that is sure to please.

$9.00/BTL-$108.00/CASE OF 12


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 caracol2

2012 Bodegas de Murcia “Caracol Serrano” Tinto- Jumilla, Spain


Sometimes, in researching the wines for our samplers, one can accidentally fall down a google “hole” which is how I found out that there are forums for people who keep snails as pets, and post pictures of these pets.

The reason my research pointed to snails is that the name of this delicious and juicy Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah/Monastrell blend is “Carcol Serrano” which is a abundant and delicious type of edible Spanish snail. And perhaps if you are feeling brave, in a culinary way, you can make a dish of sautéed rabbit with saffron, thyme, marjoram and snails.

Jumilla is a mountainous region with dark, lime bearing soils.  This is southeast coastal Spain, mountainous and mysterious, beautiful and exotic. This is the kind of dark, bold wine you can chill for about 20 minutes and enjoy cool, as it’s silky texture and ripe fruit make sense for the summer as well as cooler times.

$7.50/BTL.-$90.00/CASE OF 12

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capucine

2013 Ollieux Romanis “Capucine” Rosé-Languedoc, France

 

We don’t want to freak you out or anything, but we are getting to that time of year where we won’t be offering rosés on the sample pack. So drink as much as this pink elixir as you can, while letting your skin soak in a title Vitamin D!

Ollieux Romanis is a producer of very high quality located in the village of Corbières, in Butenac, which is recognized as an official sub-zone for very good Carignan.

The Capucine Rosé is named for a beautiful pink flower and has a lovely, pale color and  dry, delicate flavors of raspberry and strawberry. It is made primarily from Grenache and Cinsault.

$9.00/BTL.-$108.00/CASE OF 12

Posted in 6 for $60-Something, Friday Feature, Friday Features/Newsletters

Friday feature 07/18/14: The New 6 For $120-Something Sampler

Hello and Happy Friday!

 

Wayward Craig returns from Portugal next Tuesday, so we are back in business on Mondays. Sorry about the thirsty hoards that went unquenched during his travels. Come back thirsty hoards! We missed you.

 

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In other news, it is that time again, the second to last Friday of the month, when we introduce our latest Six for $120-Something Sampler.

 

This month’s box contains a smattering of old-world delights including a find from Burgundy, a much coveted rosé from the Loire Valley, an exceptional value from Ribera del Duero, and other tasty treats.

 

Keep in mind that while a few of this month’s selections are a bit limited in quantity, you are welcome to choose some of the wine à la carte, but who are you kidding, just do the whole sampler, you can drink it this month if you really try! We know you can do it.

 

So what are you waiting for, come on down today to pick yours up!

 

Cheers,

 

Craig & Sheb

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6 for $120-Something 

amiot

2012  Guy Amiot et Fils Bourgogne Aligoté- Burgundy, France

Remember that ad from 1987, “Pork: The Other White Meat”? This was a 7 million dollar campaign that worked, eventually helping to raise pork sales by 20% (that fact that bacon was included in this did not hurt).

Aligoté might benefit from such P.R. “Aligoté: The Other White Grape” has a nice ring to it. Do you think we can get the Burgundians to fork over 7 million dollars to start a campaign? Probably not.

Aligoté is a sibling grape to Chardonnay, but always produces a lighter wine with racier acidity. Much of today’s Aligoté is pretty forgettable and often used in the classic Burgundian cocktail called Kir, where it is mixed with a heavy pour of Cassis. It grows throughout Burgundy and wines made from this grape are labeled Bourgogne Aligoté, except for the village of Bouzeron in the Côte Chalonnaise, which requires 100% Aligoté in its encepagement.

In my travels to Burgundy, however, I have learned that there still exist some small vineyard plots of very old Aligoté, and these plots make some very good wines to which it would be a shame to add any cassis. The older Aligoté vines make a much more concentrated wine, while still maintaining some of that zippy acidity. Back in March, while tasting at Amiot et Fils, I was really drawn to their bottling, which I had not seen in Chicago. Fabrice Amiot explained that their Aligoté was from 70-80 years old vines, nestled beside the prized Chardonnay planted in the village fields of Chassagne-Montrachet.

The wine offers some of the same sharp mineral one often gets from a nice Chassagne, but a bit less weight. And it is ready to go right now, drinking beautifully, as I tested one the other night hoping my palate was not caught up in the la la splendor that is Burgundy. I had asked  Fabrice to throw 3 cases on the next Chicago container, and now upon tasting wish I had asked for five or ten.

$27.00/ BTL.

ONLY 32 BOTTLES AVAILABLE-6 AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE OUTSIDE OF THE SAMPLER

  

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baudry

2013 Bernard Baudry Chinon Rosê-Loire Valley, France

It’s hard to imagine that just a few years ago, this producer was virtually unknown, as they have quickly risen to great acclaim and a cult following. The Baudry Family are located in a small hamlet called Cravant-les-Côteaux, where two generations work together with a slavish devotion to Cabernet Franc and its plantings in the various terroirs they have identified on their estate.

Every year we get a meager amount of their pale, salmon-hued rosé, employing grapes that come from two different parcels and made via the direct press method (a short and swift skin contact). The distinct hallmarks of Cabernet Franc are present (bell peppers and a hint of summer plum), but the rosé reveals something more delicate and tender about the grape. That brief time with the skins does not allow the beefier, more herbal notes inherent in Cabernet Franc’s personality to fully reveal themselves.

I am also sorry to report that this wine is somewhat limited too.

$18.00/BTL.

ONLY 36 BOTTLES AVAILABLE- 12 AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE OUTSIDE THE SAMPLER

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musella

2011 Musella Valpolicella Superiore-Veneto, Italy

Although much of the world has heard of the heavy-hitter of the Veneto, Amarone, there is less recognition for Valpolicella.

We would like to change this.

Good Valpolicella, like the one offered here from Musella, brings all the light-hearted charm and pretty aromatics of a Pinot Noir coupled with a super fresh and taut quality.

If ever there were a wine match for ripe tomatoes, well-seasoned summer salads, and the subtle piquancy of food enlivened by a touch of citrus or vinegar, rather than a reduced and heavy sauce, Valpolicella is it.

Valpolicella is made from the same grapes as Amarone (Corvina and friends) but does not go through “passito” or drying of the grapes. So rather than figs and caramel, the flavor profile is pie cherries, cranberries and earth. Furthermore, Musella’s version offers a bit of power that is unusual, but it is nice to have a sense of gravity in the palate now and again.

And I am happy to report there is plenty of this wine.

$19.00/BTL.- $228.00/CASE OF 12

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liquiererb

2013 Château de la Liquière “Nos Racines” Blanc- Languedoc, France

We have been all about the wines of Château de la Liquière this summer. To re-cap, this is a wonderful family working with vines in the village of Faugères and its environs. They have several different lines and today we are featuring the white wine called “Nos Racines”. Translated from French, this means “our roots” and this wine harkens back to their ancestors.

The blend here is 30% Terret Blanc, 20% Grenache Blanc and Gris, 20% Carignan Blanc, 20% Bourboulenc & 10% Clairette. You might have had a blend like this if you have ever had a white Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Terret Blanc is fast disappearing, it is not allowed in white Faugères, and therefore the motivation to keep growing it is low, which again speaks to the name of the wine and how it recalls the wines of generations past.

There is great texture to this wine, along with flavors like peach skin, apple, and aromas of both white flowers and tender herbs like chervil and parsley.

$22.00/BTL.-$264.00/CASE OF 12

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chignard

2012 Domaine Chignard Juliénas “Beauvernay”-Burgundy, France

Cru Beaujolais had a really good thing going and was gaining quite a bit of momentum, but then the  2012 vintage hit and it has been a little less than charming. This was a difficult vintage, and some of these young wines have been quite closed and honestly, a bit terse. To call the harvest challenging is an understatement; and the tragedy is that this hardship, coupled with dramatically decreased production levels, forced many wineries out of business.

However, the producer we are featuring has made a wine that does not at all reveal the obstacles of 2012.

Domaine Chignard, located in Fleurie, has produced a delicious Juliénas that is open, generous and full of all the luscious goodness you could want in a Cru Beaujolais. The vineyard, “Beauvernay”, is named for a grove of alder trees that can be seen at the base of the hillside. The granitic soils impart a great sense of minerality to the wine, and the 60+ year old Gamay vines lend weight and concentration.

$26.00/BTL.-$312.00/CASE OF 12

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hito2010 Bodegas Cepa 21 “Hito”-Ribera del Duero, Spain

Ribera del Duero is a special place: beautiful, savage, and although rife with agricultural pursuits, especially viticulture, there is a sense of preservation and a desire not to disturb the natural landscape.

Ribera del Duero is also a special place because it is perfectly acceptable to roast a bunch of suckling lambs up for dinner, eat said lambies with your fingers, and drink copious amounts of the wonderful Tempranillo for which the region is famous.

The Tempranillo here undergoes very dramatic conditions during each years’ growth cycle. There is a big swing between the day and nighttime temperatures, sometimes up to forty degrees. This diurnal variation allows for extraordinary ripening during the day and true rest for the vines at night, allowing the grapes to retain acidity.

Emilio Moro is a well regarded producer in the region and makes some very expensive and sought after wines. The Bodegas Cepa 21 project is a second winery built to produce a more affordable line. The vines are all part of a selection massale taken from 100+ year old vines in Pesquera.

 

Hito is a rich, dark wine that exhibits much blue and black fruit, spice and violet flower.

$15.00/BTL.-$180.00/CASE OF 12

Posted in 6 for $120-Something, Friday Feature, Friday Features/Newsletters, Newsletter

Friday Feature 07/11/14: It’s Not Burgundy, But It’s Delicious

Hello and Happy Friday!

 

As many of you know, Craig is making his way through the Portuguese countryside, making friends, tasting wine and apparently eating lots of baby pigs! He is keeping a log of his adventures this year, and honestly it is some of his most compelling writing to date. You can keep up with his adventures by clicking this link which brings you to our website blog, which we call “The Wine Wire”. You can also keep up with his adventures on our Facebook page.

 

We also will be CLOSED this coming Monday, July 15th. After that, not too much travel is left on the books, so our hours should return to normal.

 

With the big boss away, I am left to my own devices regarding the Friday Feature. I had some big plans for France, but then yesterday was fortunate to taste a Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara County (I know, get the smelling salts out!) that really knocked my socks off. The word balance is often over-used in the context of wine these days, but today’s Friday Feature is harmonious and made with great equilibrium.

 

The other terrific news is that the pricing is very reasonable. Onto the Feature!

 

Have a Great Week-End!

 

Craig (Iberia and beyond) & Sheb (here)

 

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2012 Deovlet Pinot Noir-Santa Barbara County, CA 

 

Ryan Deovlet began his winemaking career working alongside some very famous names including David Ramey & Paul Hobbs. And while he owns no vineyards, he maintains constant farming input and strict harvesting decisions, working in the style of a Burgundian micro-negociant. He works with very tiny quantities and only in Santa Maria Valley and Santa Maria Hills, two AVAs known for their cool temperatures and for producing high-quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

 

The 2012 Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir employs fruit from these two appellations and only 175 cases were made. The wines exhibits a velvety texture and bright, baked cherry fruit, along with a hint of smoke and pine. It it luscious without being cloying. Ryan employs 30% new oak for this bottling,  but rather than being a nuisance and obvious, the oak contributes a tender spice and slightly underscores the structure.

 

I think Pinot Noir lovers of all stripes will enjoy this wonderful bottle.

 

$36.99/BTL.-$443.88/CASE OF 12

LIMITED AVAILABILITY

Posted in Friday Feature, Friday Features/Newsletters, Newsletter

Perman’s Portuguese Adventures – Day 3 & 4

Catching up! July 11th & 12th

Friday, July 11th

Friday consisted of many ups and downs, something typical of any wine business trip.

I made my way from Ameal at Ponte de Lima south to the appellation of Lisboa, which until recently was called Estremadura. I’ve had the opportunity to visit one producer in Lisboa before, and this time was a completely different story and philosophy than before.

I met Marta Soares from Casal Figueira at her “in progress” winery in small village of Vermelha. Looking out from the roof of the winery you face south and see Montejunto, a mountain that rises up and helps protect this part of the appellation of Lisboa from the extreme heat of the South. The Atlantic Ocean, which is just a short drive away, provides fresh breezes to help cool the grapes.

The story of Casal Figueira isn’t easy to write. There is of course sadness in this story, but after spending several hours with Marta, and getting a feeling for who she is as a person, I will tell it directly and hope that I have all the facts straight. Continue reading »

Posted in The Wine Wire

Perman’s Portuguese Adventures – Day 2

A recap of my date today in Portugal…

What do you think of, when the words Vinho Verde is mentioned?

This was a question that sparked great conversation today as I visited with Pedro Araujo, owner of Quinta do Ameal, a producer just outside of Refoios de Lima in the Northern part of Portugal.  Ameal begun  in 1989, when Pedro’s father purchased the Ameal estate after selling the famed Port House, Ramos Pinto.  Ameal is roughly 30 hectares, with 12 hectares of vineyards, and the rest a mixture of forest, open land and 800 meters of frontage along the Lima river.  By 1994, some wine was being made at Ameal, and Pedro joined the estate in 1998 with his first vintage being 1999. Continue reading »

Posted in The Wine Wire

Perman’s Portuguese Adventures – Day 1

Hello from Portugal everyone! I’ve decided to keep some records of this trip by adding a daily log. Today I flew into Lisbon and immediately drove to the Bairrada region couple hours north. My purpose was to visit Casa de Saima a producer that I’ve worked with Maverick Wine Company to bring in for my store and the Fat Rice list.

Continue reading »

Posted in The Wine Wire

Friday Feature 06/27/14: The New 6 For $60 Something Sampler. Frenchie Edition.

Hello and Happy Friday!

Hope you had a great week.

 

In Perman Wine news, the intrepid traveler Craig takes off to Portugal for 10 days. We also have the 4th of July holiday looming (how did it pass this quickly, this summer?!!). As a result, we will have a few closures:

 

Friday July 4th : CLOSED

(stock up Wednesday the 3rd!!)

 

Monday July 7th: CLOSED.

Monday July 14th: CLOSED

 

We appreciate your patience while we try desperately to strive for a work/life balance.

 

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With all the focus of late on Iberian wines, we thought it time to turn our attention to what Sheb calls the “motherland”- France!

So we present to you another themed sampler if you will- this time à la Français!

And, it being the last Friday of the month, and that means time to unveil another Six for $60-Something sampler!

All of these selections are available by the bottle and the case, but there is no better way to learn about a country than by trying a variety of its wines.  We will take you all the way from Alsace to the western corner of the Languedoc, so hold on tight!

If interested in a sampler, simply stop by the store, or send us an email and we can coordinate delivery or shipping.

Craig & Sheb

 

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a1top

6 for $60-Something Sampler

 kuentzbas

2011 Kuentz-Bas Vin D’Alsace Blanc-Alsace, France

Last week on our 6 for $120-Something Sampler, we touched upon briefly some of the more problematic aspects of selling wines from Alsace; high price points and the fact that it is difficult to tell whether or not you are buying a dry wine or something dripping with residual sugar. Despite all this, we are offering yet another wine from the region.

Kuentz-Bas has been around since the 1700s in the adorable village of Husseren-Les-Châteaux. A significant change came to the property in 2004, when it was purchased by Maison Jean-Baptiste Adam, and there was some worry about what the future held. A conversion to biodynamics and a general improvement in wine quality put all anxiety to rest, eventually. After all, it’s the French and sometimes they do not like to change.

The style of wine we are offering here used to be labeled as “Edelzwicker” an awkward term for single variety or blended white wines in Alsace that could, but did not have to, carry a vintage date. But let’s face it, no one is coming into the store asking for Edelzwicker.

The wine is a blend of Sylvaner, Muscat, Auxerrois & Chasselas. It is dry (hallelujah!) and mineral driven. Sylvaner is a grape that could use a better PR department. It is capable of producing nervy yet firm wines, mainly in Germany, Austria and Alsace. Muscat adds a floral note to the blend, the Auxerrois and Chasselas a bit of richness.

$13.00/ BTL.-$156.00/CASE OF 12

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chemin
2013 Château de la Liquière “A Mi Chemin” Rosé-Languedoc, France

 

Over the years, both Craig and I have relied upon Château de la Liquière for dependable, delicious wines at very good prices. This producer is located in Faugères (foh-jare). With a population of 501 people, Faugères is not exactly the most populous dense place in the world, and as a wine region it has had its share of hardships. Like most of Europe, phylloxera hit in the late 1800s and then growth was slow due to the two world wars. In the 1960s there was a storm so violent that many of the vineyards were destroyed by landslides. Rebuilding was slow again, but AOC status was finally granted in 1982.

Liquière’s history is a common one in the Languedoc; once a supplier to the local co-op, where the grapes went into making cheap plonk, the current generation now produces wine organically and makes lovely, high quality products.

The “Mi Chemin” line is their most affordable label. The rosé is a true delight and invites the sort of misty, romanticization of Southern France that should most likely be avoided, but is sometimes difficult to do. It is made of Carignan, Syrah & Grenache and in possession of such a beautiful ruby pink color you will think you have been magically transported into some kind of adult princess lair that involves alcohol! It is dry and full of summer fruit- watermelon, cherries and raspberries.

$12.00/BTL-$144.00/CASE OF 12

we highly recommend the case purchase!

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tain

2011 Cave de Tain Syrah, Northern Rhône Valley, France

High quality, top-tier wines are not always the first association we have with large co-op wineries. Of course, there are many delicious and affordable wines made by co-ops these days. But Cave de Tain in France, and Produttori del Barbaresco in Italy stand out as grand exceptions to the rule.

Cave de Tain lies at the foot of the Hermitage hillside and buys grapes from nearly 1000 hectares of vines. They own 21 hectares outright, and those vineyards are farmed by nine permanent employees. It is safe to say that these guys know how to handle Syrah.

This Syrah, from the hillsides, and flats of the Northern Rhône, carries the egregious appellation of Collines Rhodaniennes, which by the way, even native residents of the Rhône Valley find preposterous and hard to pronounce.

You may  be thinking, “Well that’s terrific and all, but why do I want a ponderous and heavy Syrah from the Rhône in the summer?”. Let us be the first to assure you that this wine is made in a fruity and affable style, no decanting or meditation required. An easy answer to burgers and steaks on the grill. You can even chill it down a bit for a refreshing evening quaffer.

$11.00/BTL.- $132.00/ CASE OF 12

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 montrose

2013 Domaine Montrose Chardonnay-Languedoc, France

For us to get excited about Chardonnay these days, well, it takes a lot. We often, on our travels we have the privilege of tasting some of the world’s greatest expressions of the grape, so when Craig texted me at home, excited about an inexpensive one from the Languedoc, I was stunned.

Domaine Montrose is a serious, family-run winery in the fun to pronounce region of Côtes-de-Thongue. They are not far from the Mediterranean coast, in between the cities of Narbonne and Montpellier. This is normally not a terroir we think about, when we think about Chardonnay, but this proximity to the sea breezes, as well as night harvesting, cold fermentations and stainless steel aging contribute to a fresh and lively Chardonnay, with notes of citrus, peach and fresh apples.

$11.00/BTL.-132.00/CASE OF 12

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corbieres

2011 Château Montauriol Rigaud “Cuvée Les Crozes” Corbières-Languedoc, France

This may be one of the few wines we have ever offered whose grapes are under constant attack from wild boars. Apparently it’s hard out there for a grape!

Corbières is yet another rustic little village that dots the winding Mediterranean landscape of the Languedoc, two hours south of Faugères and abut 20 miles from the Spanish border. The blend here is Grenache, Syrah & Carignan, all fermented in stainless steel and then aged for one year in neutral oak.

Google earth images of Corbières all reveal a similar story; mountainous, pebble-strewn land swathed in vines and green scrub herbs. There is a sense of desolation coupled with peace; a natural savagery that coexists with scenic serenity. The wine however, drinks a little bit more easily than this: ripe baked cherries and cranberries coupled with a hint of earth.

Stick it in fridge for a minute if you wish and place it at the center of a table filled with grilled meat. You’ll be fine.

$11.00/BTL.-$132.00/CASE OF 12

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2013 Château Briot Bordeaux Blanc-Bordeaux, France

Back in chilly February we ran the last of the 2012 vintage of this wine, and despite our misgivings about running such a fresh and crisp white in the middle of such a chilly winter, you all went crackerjacks over it. So when we heard about the 2013 being released, we gave it a shot. It is even more fresh and lively than we had remembered, although honestly, we cannot guarantee that we truly remember tasting the 2012 because six months is a long time and we have tasted a lot of wine since then.

Château Briot is one of several large holdings of the successful Ducourt family. This dry white wine is composed of 72% Sauvignon Blanc, zesty and bracingly herbacious and 28% Muscadelle. The Muscadelle, floral and fruity too, contributes to the aromatic complexity and perfumes the wine with acacia blossom, honey and adds a layer of richness.

Sauvignon Blanc fans can finally rejoice- we got you covered fhis summer.

$11.00/ BTL.- $132.00/CASE OF 12

Posted in 6 for $60-Something, Friday Feature, Friday Features/Newsletters

Friday Feature 06/19/14: The New 6 for $120 Something Sampler

Hello and Happy Friday!

 

 

Some house news to start -it is that time of year when our Thursday night tasting series takes a little vacation. We will start up again in September and of course, finish the year up with our ever popular Champagne Tasting(s) in December. We will of course announce our fall schedule in a newsletter soon.

 

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In other news, it is that time again, the second to last Friday of the month, when we introduce our latest Six for $120-Something Sampler.

 

This month’s we have a range of classic wines from Piemonte and France, as well as some wacky but super delicious finds from California and the south of France. It is definitely one of the more dynamic samplers we have offered.

 

Keep in mind these wines are available by the bottle with the exception of one, but who are you kidding, just do the whole sampler, you can drink it this month if you really try! Also, our first rose of the year makes its appearance.

 

In all seriousness, the sampler is a great way to stock your monthly wine rack.  It also provides a great way to learn about wine.  Most importantly the wines are delicious!

 

So what are you waiting for, come on down today to pick yours up!

 

Cheers,

 

Craig & Sheb

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6 for $120-Something 

gaz

2012 Château de la Liquière “L’Unique Gaz de Schiste” Vin Mousseux Rosé Brut- Languedoc, France
Ladies and gentleman – let us introduce you to your new favorite summer wine.
 
It’s pink, it sparkles and it comes with a funky name that we just dare you to try and rapidly say 10 times in a row.
Several months ago we put in a special order for some of the smaller production wines of one of our favorite producers in the Languedoc, Château de la Liquière.  Based in the appellation of Faugères, they own 60 hectares of vineyards in different zones..  From top to bottom, everything that Liquière does is top notch, and representative of the region. This is a name you will see lots of over the next couple months here at Perman Wine.
 
Our first selection for you to try is a small production sparkling wine made in the Methode Ancestrale.  Many of you wine nerds have tried sparkling wines from Bugey Cerdon, but how about a wine of this style from the Languedoc?

Liquière produces just 2500 bottles of this sparkling which is a blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Mourvèdre, bottles with 25 grams of sugar, after which the secondary fermentation process turns into about 4 or 5 grams.

The aromatics on this wine scream wild strawberry, while the palate shows a more intense raspberry and currant liqueur-like note.  All of this while maintaining balance, mineral and a dry, refreshing finish.

Let’s just say you are going to go bananas over this.  The only trouble – only 132 bottles were imported, directly to the store.

Come get some!

$18.00 BTL. / $216.00 CASE

 

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vietti

2012 Vietti Dolcetto D’Alba- Piemonte, Italy

For all the love Pinot Noir seems to engender, we sometimes get troubled by the fact that Dolcetto often gets overlooked. After all, Dolcetto makes luscious and juicy wines with low tannins and great freshness. And for us, Dolcettos can be a delightful and versatile food pairing buddy, good with fish, salads, white flushed meats, Asian and Mediterranean cuisines.

And what better producer for your Dolcetto than Vietti, a Piedmontese icon. Their vineyards are among some of the greatest in Barolo. Their Dolcetto is produced on the estate and handled with the same family love as the Cru Barolo.

Translated from Italian, Dolcetto D’Alba means “little sweet one of the dawn”. Very little on the earth could be as charming as that. Have we convinced you yet?

$20.00 BTL.-$240.00/CASE OF 12

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bica

2012 Quinta da Bica Vinho Branco-Dão, Portugal

Last year when Craig returned from Portugal, he decided  that we would make a big commitment to finding and bringing in producers that deserved shelf space alongside the great wines of France, Italy, Spain and the United States. So we pushed for our distributors to start bringing in these great Portuguese producers that Craig found on his travels.

It seems as if the wine press is catching up with us. First, there was this article in which Eric Aasimov of the New York Times extolls the beauty of Portuguese white wines.

And in March, Matt Kramer of the Wine Spectator put a call out for more people to get on board with Portuguese wines, posing the question ” Is Portugal the most exciting wine place on the planet?”. The answer is yes. And we agree with him.

 

And while we realize we have been offering and writing about Portugal a lot these days, how can you blame us? We are pretty excited about the way things are going and happy that the media is seeing things the way we do.

Today’s Portuguese offering is a white wine from Quinta da Bica, a producer in the Dāo region. You may recall from other newsletters that the Dāo is a mountainous region in the middle of Portugal, protected on either side by the Beiras Interior and Atlantico. This is where you will find wines made with elegance and finesse, and this Vinho Branco (white wine) is no exception.

The blend here is Verdelho & Encruzado. Verdelho is a grape used in Madeira production, and sometimes you might see new world versions from Australia and California’s Central Coast. Encruzado is exclusive to the Dāo, and provides floral aromatics as well as weight to the blend.

This wine is described best as a light and ethereal, with good minerality and delicate aromatics.

$19.00/BTL- $228.00/CASE OF 12

 

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 canf

2012 Can Feixes Blanc Selecció-Penedés, Spain

For over 15 years, nothing has said summer better than a bottle of Blanc Selecció from Can Feixes.  That is how long Craig has been selling this great value from the Huguet family.

Located in the Northwest corner of the Alt Penedès region of Catalunya, Spain, the estate sits in a particularly cool microclimate, perfectly suited to the local grape varietals, Parellada, Macabeo, Malvasía de Sitges, as well as the international grape, Chardonnay.

In the Penedès region it is typical for Cava producers to make a still white wine from the typical grapes of the region, and Can Feixes has always been one of the shining examples of this still, white wine blend.

In keeping with their idea of providing a fresh, easy drinking style, the grapes are cold fermented in stainless steel tanks, and matured in contact with their lees for a few months.

2012 provided another great vintage for Can Feixes, and this wine displays its classic lime zest, mineral and orange notes on the nose and palate.  An ideal glass while sitting on your deck, it also is the bottle to reach for when going out for sushi.

$15.00 BTL. / $180.00 CASE
 

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gris

2012 Château D’Orschwihr Pinot Gris “Bollenberg”-Alsace, France

 

No-one will argue that Alsace doesn’t make good, sometimes great wines, but I think we are all in accord when I say that buying wine from this region can be confusing. Are you buying something sweet, off dry, intense or light? There is often no indication of what you may find in the bottle.

 

Alsace is definitely a region for white wine drinkers. They specialize in Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat. Other accessory grapes include Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc & Pinot Noir. Quaint picturesque villages (119 in total) dot the landscape and planted around these are 40,000 acres of vines. Of these, 52 vineyards are considered Grand Cru.

 

Château D’Orschwihr got going in 1049 A.D. and may be one of the most experienced wineries we have here at the shop. They work with several Grand Crus and two single vineyards, one of which is Bollenberg. This vineyard is atop a limestone hill and is one of the driest and warmest sites in Alsace. As a result, the grapes grown there achieve a lovely richness coupled with nervy acidity.

 

This wine is off-dry. They actually state how much residual sugar on the label, which is nice. There is a perception of sweetness, but this is tempered by the acidity, which is bracing. This would be a superb match for a BYOB sushi night, or even Korean barbecue.

 

$18.00/BTL-$216.00/ CASE OF 12

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valdigue

2013 Broc Cellars Valdigué-Solano County/ Green Valley, CA.

 

In the 1970s, it was quite common to peruse a wine shop’s domestic section and see many different labels of Napa Gamay, or Gamay Beaujolais.  You could also at that time, buy Napa Cabernet Sauvignon for $6.99/ bottle. There was also a lot more Petit Sirah. So times have changed.

 

The 1970s were also time when many Californian winemakers did not know what the hell was planted in their vineyards. They were too busy growing afros, minding their marijuana plants and sitting nude in hot tubs. No-one bothered to find out that the Gamay they were growing was actually Valdigué. Too much free loving and not enough botany, if you ask me.

 

Valdigué made it’s way from southwest France, where it grows in the Tarn and Lot departments. It is distantly related to Cot, or Malbec. It somehow settled in California and someone decided it looked like Gamay Noir. Broc Cellars (Chris Brockway) has always been invested in the historic vineyards of California. So you can imagine their delight when they found 70 year old Valdigué vines still in cultivation in Solano County.

 

Freshness and acidity are always important to Chris, and his wines’  alcohol levels are always quite low by California standards; the 2013 Valdigué clocks in at only 12.5%. Tart red fruit, earth and light tannins are coupled with a crisp, fresh character in this unique red.

 

$24.00/BTL- $288.00/ CASE OF 12

Posted in 6 for $120-Something, Friday Feature, Friday Features/Newsletters

The Wine Wire: Bow & Arrow Rosé of Gamay Noir

Delicate heady and delicious, you don’t often see a Rosé of Gamay outside Beaujolais. We got about 4 cases from this little producer.

2013 Bow & Arrow Rosé of Gamay Noir $19.99/ BTL.

Posted in The Wine Wire