Friday Feature – December 11, 2009

*UPDATE – Monsieur Dauvissat has thrown us a bit of a curve ball this year, shipping the following wines in three separate waves.  The Petit Chablis and Chablis have arrived at the store.  The Premier Cru’s as well as “Les Preuses” will arrive late January ’10 or early February ’10.  “Les Clos” will come last arriving Fall ’10.  I apologize for the miss communication, but these are worth the wait!”*


This is always one of the most exciting times of the year for me. Each year at the end of December one of France’s most sought after white wine producers, Vincent Dauvissat of Chablis, releases his newest vintage.  This time the ‘08’s are just a few weeks away.

Chablis is one of the greatest examples of Chardonnay in the world, and Vincent Dauvissat is one of the greatest names of that region. This family winery owns a tiny 11 hectares of vineyards in the region, 90% of which are Premier or Grand Cru vineyards.  Terroir driven wines of elegance are the focus at the estate, and as Vincent Dauvissat says himself “Over-ripe Chardonnay isn’t very interesting.”

Low-yields and hand picked grapes are the starting point.  The wine is fermented in a combination of stainless steel and oak, a small amount of which is new.  Aging is done in old oak, which imparts no oak flavors, but helps the wine to naturally gain complexity.

According to Dauvissat, 2008 produced “elegant wines, with very well-integrated acidity, like good 2002s, but they were difficult to make.”

No reviews are out on these wines, but then again Dauvissat makes great wine every year!

It is also important to note that these are the most fairly priced Chablis of the top tier, and a steal in the world of White Burgundy.

Below you will find notes on the various offerings from Daniel Haas, owner of Vineyard Brands, the importer.  Daniel has been tasting these wines longer than I have been legal to drink, so his opinion is much valued around these parts.  I also have always found him to be very honest in his evaluations, and even though he sells these, he will pan something if he doesn’t think much of it.

As a big supporter of these wines over the years, I was one of the chosen few to receive a coveted allocation.   These wines are due to arrive at the very end of December.  They will most likely sell out before they arrive.  Secure your order today!

As always, let me know if you have any questions.

Have a great weekend,


2008 Vincent Dauvissat Petit Chablis
“Practically no addition of sugar in 2008, at most only .02 points. Very stoney on the nose, salt and iodine. Very Chablis already.  On the palate, grapefruit with nice structure.  Pungent mineral acidity, quite lively on the finish. 17.9/20”


2008 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis
“A riper nose of sweet apple, some macadamia nut, too. A little bit more richness and fatter in texture than the Petit Chablis. Sweet orange, nice lush, hazelnut nuances along with some ripe peach. A vibrant finish. 18.4/20”


2008 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis “Séchet,” Premier Cru
“A smoky, very mineral nose which carries over to the palate. Already refined and elegant. Pointy acidity, lemon confit and nut butter; luscious and warm with sneaky power. A sugared grapefruit finish. 18.6/20”
$45.99 BTL. / $551.88 CASE – TWO CASES AVAILABLE

2008 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis “Vaillons,” Premier Cru
“A malic apple nose, more rustic, too. On the palate, very malic with some apple skin, a little less acidity and minerality than the Séchet but more massive. Baked apple à la mode, very creamy vanilla bean without the oak, again a vibrant acidity of grapefruit and candy. 18.8/20”
$45.99 BTL. / $551.88 CASE – TWO CASES AVAILABLE


2008 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis “La Forest,” Premier Cru
“A resinated nose, very much the forest floor; a wild, sauvage, earthy smell. On the palate, lemony with tons of sugar and pink grapefruit, too. Bursting acidity, intense, well-rounded fruit with a great minerality of wet stone that is sugar-coated. 19.1/20”


2008 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis “Les Preuses,” Grand Cru
“Buttered toast on the nose – raisin bread that is toasted. Rich, lush with high acids, it has texture and finesse. Grand cru through and through. Long, floral, rose nuanced fruit; some eggnog and sweet corn on the finish. Killer. 19.4/20”
$89.99 BTL. / $1079.88 CASE – TWO CASES AVAILABLE


2008 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis “Les Clos,” Grand Cru
“13º natural alcohol. Golden raisined nose, very ripe, white peach concentrate. On the palate, powerful, massive long-lasting fruit that is already developed, even before the end of malo. Some smoke and toasted almond and butterscotch. Round, viscous, oily finish. Fantastic Chablis, yet as rich as Chardonnay can get. 19.6/20”
$89.99 BTL. / $1079.88 CASE – TWO CASES AVAILABLE

Craig Perman
Perman Wine Selections
802 W. Washington Blvd.
Chicago, IL 60607
Phone 312-666-4417
Fax 312-666-4487

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