Perman Wine Selections Chicago

Hello,

A jam packed newsletter for you today that includes four great Spanish values, a top notch Napa Cabernet, a very special Roter Veltliner from Austria, even a double “collector’s corner” with two world class wines from Italy and Spain.  Hope you have some time on your hands to read!

For many of you reading this today, this will be your first newsletter. Please keep in mind these wines are not all in the store at this time.  I will bring them in based on your orders.  Turn around time on everything is usually very quick.    I do this because it is my goal to sell my clients what they want and not what I need to push out the door.  The big stores often buy large quantities of wine and focus on selling what is in the store not necessarily what you are asking for.  My focus is your palate and finding the right wine for it!

That being said, what I feature on the newsletters is the best of the best of what I taste.  These are some strong recommendations, and I always encourage you to e-mail me back and ask if a particular wine is the right one for you!

Happy wine hunting.

Cheers,
Craig

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FOUR CAN’T MISS SPANISH WINE VALUES
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As a huge fan of Spanish wine I have been searching lately for a value that really excites me. What do you know, but I weeded through a bunch, and came up with four excellent values for today’s newsletter in an assortment of styles.  So here it goes…

2006 TOMÀS CUSINÉ  “VILOSELL” COSTERS DEL SEGRE
Tomàs Cusiné is one of Spain’s best enologists.  For many years he was at the helm of Castel del Remei and Celler de Cantonella, two wineries that helped put the appellation of Costers del Segre on the map (along with Raimat).  Speaking of maps, you are going to need one to try and find this appellation because it is basically in the middle of nowhere!

If you travel west from Barcelona, and keep going, eventually you will find your way to the city of Lleida.  North and west of that city is where the vineyards of Costers del Segre lie. This is an extremely dry region, with large fluctuations in season and daily temperature.  It can be ice cold in winter and then scorching warm and in summer.  Not an easy place to make wine!

With twenty plus years of enological experience in the region, Tomàs Cusiné knows his way around.  With that knowledge, he set up his on project , which he currently makes three wines from. What grows well in Costers del Segre?  An amazingly wide range of varietals can be found. Tomàs Cusiné grows eleven varietals, six whites and six reds.

For “Vilosell” Cusiné blends 65% Tempranillo with 17% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Syrah.  This sees a nine-month aging period in French oak, with a secondary fermentation in primarily stainless steel and some barrel.

This is not a heavy handed, oaky style of red.  This has fruit, but it is so well balanced with red fruits, hints at tobacco and plenty of spice.  It is a really impressive value for its quality!
$13.99 BTL. / $167.88 CASE

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2007 PAZO DE ARRIBI BIERZO
If you go just a few years back, everyone that followed Spanish wine was clamoring about the promise of the region of Bierzo.  Located in the northwestern part of Spain, this region boasts a ton of old-vine Mencía fruit.

Superstar winemaker Alvaro Palacios and his nephew Ricardo made a huge splash with their wines labeled under Descendientes de José Palacios.  There certainly were some impressive wines from the region, although many carried way too much oak, and seemed a little too burly.  Maybe that turned consumers off because Bierzo seems today like a relatively dead category.

I think it will make a come back though, and it should start with this absolutely amazing value. Mencía often tastes like a cross between Syrah and Pinot Noir.  Got your attention?

It has my attention because as I write this, I am having a glass of this delicious value from Pazo de Arribi. I’ve drunk a lot of Crozes-Hermitage (the famous appellation of the Northern Rhône that grows Syrah), and this wine is a dead on ringer for a warm vintage of a good wine from that appellation.  I’m serious.  I usually hate comparing polar opposite wines like that, but this absolutely has some similarities!

If you want some insider scoop, Classical Wines, a great Spanish importer used to have a Bierzo winery called Dominio de Tares. That producer loved their oak, I mean those wines are absolutely whacked!  Philosophically, Classical Wines wanted to find a producer with a more restrained style, and they certainly found that in Pazo de Arribi.

The ’07 Mencía is aged in some French and American oak, but it is second and third use barrel. Pour this is a big Pinot glass and it jumps out of the glass with violets, that Syrah like bacony / green olive note, and red fruits.  Silky on the palate with medium weight this really lingers on the palate and has great balance.  This just screams for some duck or lamb!  An awesome value.
$12.99 BTL. / $155.88 CASE

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2007 BODEGAS CARCHELO “C”
If that Pazo de Arribi reminded me of a Northern Rhône wine, this great value smacks of the South of France.  Pop open a bottle of Carchelo “C” and a big “garrigue” or Mediterranean herb note almost fills the room.

Here is a red wine for those that love them full-bodied!  Bodegas Carchelo is a producer that was founded in the early ‘80’s in the region of Jumilla.  This area sits on the southern Mediterranean coast of Spain, northwest of Murcia.  While it is very dry and warm, its inland and hilly location, with altitudes between 2000 and 35000 feet means that the nighttime temperatures are drastically lower that its hot days.

For Carchelo “C” they blend  40% Monastrell (same grape as Mourvèdre that you see in the south of France) with 40% Syrah and 20% Tempranillo.  Each varietal is elaborated separately and then blended.

This is a real mouthful of wine with notes of blackberries, fig, lots of pepper spice, licorice and herbs.  There is plenty of structure hiding underneath its ripe fruit on the palate.  This may not be the most complex wine on earth, but it really packs in some flavor for the price!
$11.99 BTL. / $143.88 CASE

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2008 JANÉ VENTURA BLANC SELECCIÓ
First there was Albariño, then came Verdejo, and know those that have fallen in love with Spanish whites should try some of the delicious white blends that are coming from Catalunya.  Those of you on the newsletter list for a bit may remember that Friday Feature where I boasted about the perennial value called Can Feixes?  Well here is another can’t miss value from just to the south of Barcelona.  It just arrived to Chicago and it is oh so lip-smackingly good!

Jané Ventura is a very important estate in the appellation of Penedès.  This is a longtime family operation to which I have visited several times.  Everything is done by hand in small lots, and the quality across the board is excellent.

The 2008 Blanc Selecció is a selection of four grapes from 15 different vineyards.  Including in the blend is the local varieties Xarel-lo and Malvasia de Sitges, as well as Chardonnay and Muscat.  This is fermented and rested in stainless steel tank, and is produced in a dry, crisp and refreshing style without the use of oak.

Floral on the nose with notes of melon and lemon peel.  Very fresh and juicy on the palate with tangerine, grapefruit peel and mineral.  I’ve already taste tested this with some sushi and it was delicious. It’s a rough job but someone has to do it!
$13.99 BTL. / $83.94 SIX-PACK CASE

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IT’S TIME TO LEARN ABOUT GREECE
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2008 GENTILINI ROBOLA OF CEPHALONIA
Years ago when I used to buy wine in Portland, Oregon there was a distributor whose owner was Greek. Self proclaimed “Famous” Dino was a really good guy, and he also was really enthusiastic about the wines of his homeland.  10 years ago, the consumer didn’t meet that level of enthusiasm of Greek wine that Dino had.

My eyes were opened at the time to the terrific quality that Greece can achieve.  Today, I think many consumers are more enthusiastic about the wines of Greece, in part due to more “serious” Greek restaurants emerging in cities like New York and finally Chicago.  I’m a big fan of the restaurant Taxim in Chicago because they take classic Greek recipes and use really fresh and good ingredients to recreate it.  Eating there a few weeks ago reminded me of my love for this wine from the island of Cephalonia in Greece.

Gentilini is the top winery on the largest of the Ionian islands of Greece.  Spiro Cosmetatos returned to his native island in 1978 after some years learning how to make wine in places like South Africa, California, and Australia.  He built a modern winery and starting to produce his first wine in 1984.

Besides the attention to detail, what I like about this winery is that Spiro planted both international varieties as well as working with local varieties with a long history on the island.  It is one of those local varietals that I have decided to highlight today.

This 100% Robola is grown on high altitude vineyards in a mixture of limestone and gravel.  The grapes are gently pressed, put into tank by gravity where they are cold fermented till dry.  The result is very fresh and intense citrus notes on the nose and palate, along with mineral, flowers and refreshing acidity. Traditionally this would be enjoyed with very simply prepared shellfish or perhaps a whole roasted fish. I’m hungry and thirsty just thinking about it.
$15.99 BTL. / $191.98 CASE

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OUTRAGEOUS NAPA CABERNET
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2006 DRINKWARD PESCHON CABERNET SAUVIGNON “ENTRE  DEUX MÈRES”
I was never cool enough to get a back stage pass at a concert. Yet there was always hope for me when it came to the wine equivalent.  From time to time, I’m wine geeky enough to land something so rare that I’m the only retailer to get a chance to offer it to the consumers of Chicago.

Such is the case with this super limited, and highly coveted bottle from Napa Valley producer Drinkward Peschon.  “Entre Deux Mères” refers to the winemaking team of Lisa Drinkward and Francoise Peschon.

Lisa is the famous vineyard manager for Behrens & Hitchcock and Francoise is the consulting winemaker for Napa legend, Araujo Estate.  To buy any wines from those other producers would force you to shell out triple digits.  While it is kind of difficult to call anything that is $77.99 a good value, in the expensive world of top Napa Cabernet, this is

One single wine is made by this dynamic duo, about 500 cases of this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. While they are serious winemakers, they kind of just do this project for fun.  Most of the wine goes to friends, and stays in California.

Chicago received seven cases of this wine, six will go to restaurants and one to me.

Tasting this wine last week I was struck with how this wine has that traditional Napa boldness, but yet it also stays true to what Cabernet should be about.  Classic notes of dark cherry, plum, cassis, dried herbs and dark chocolate notes.  This finish with dusty and savory tannins.  An excellent Napa Cabernet Sauvignon!
$77.99 BTL. / ONLY 12 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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DOES IT GET ANY BETTER THAN ROTER VELTLINER? – NOT FOR ME!
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2008 WIMMER CZERNY ROTER VELTLINER
For months I’ve been begging to get this very small production wine from Wimmer Czerny, a top producer in the Wagram region of Austria.  Over 250 years old, the winery is currently run by Hans Czerny.  This is a Demeter certified biodynamic estate, and much of the food as well as drink that finds its way to the Czerny’s dinner table is grown on site. But back to the matter at hand…

Every since my taste buds first encountered Roter Veltliner, the darker skinned mutation of Grüner Veltliner, I’ve been stalking it. But this stuff isn’t easy to get your hands on!  It is a specialty of the small region of the Wagram, and rarely is shipped outside of Austria.  Frankly the Austrians keep most of it for themselves.

But after a little pleading I was able to snag the only 60 bottles of this wonderful wine to come into Chicago!  Not bad considering only around 8,000 bottles are produced annually.

Aside from its rarity, Roter Veltliner is a great wine for the dinner table as its acidity and light herbal elements work great with opening courses like salads and shellfish.  Weighing in at only 12% alcohol by volume, this is so light on its feet with racy citrus notes, an underlying mineral component and bright acidity! In a word, this is delicious!
$19.99 BTL. / $239.88 CASE

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A RETURN TO BANDOL
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2005 DOMAINE DE L’HERMITAGE BANDOL
Someone needed to put out an “A.P.B.” on Bandol.  I mean really, this was a much talked about A.O.C. in the South of France in the eighties and nineties, but recently, you don’t hear much about it.

Part of that has come from the fact that the wines of Bandol had become inaccessible, both in terms of price and even drinkability in their youth.

It is my belief that you will hear more about Bandol again in the coming years.  Considering the appellation was granted its status in 1941, and has historically been one of the most important regions in France, I expect the world to rediscover this great region.

Bandol is part of Provence.  The workhorse varietal of the region is Mourvèdre, although Grenache does often find its way into many Bandol in small proportions.  Yields must not exceed 40 hl/ha, and this means production in this relatively small region is very low.

What makes the region so great is its poor soil, proximity to the water, arid temperatures, and long growing season.  Mourvèdre is typically harvested in late October, as it is a slow ripening varietal.

Domaine de l’Hermitage has become a very exciting discovery for me in the world of Bandol.  Owned by the Duffort family who purchased their estate in 1974.  The estate consists of a couple of different terroir, which help them to produce both top notch Grenache to blend, and Mourvèdre for the main portion of the blend.

The grapes are destemmed and crushed before being fermented in large French tonneaux.  There is a post fermentation maceration to add structure, and then the wine is aged in these barrels for 18 months.

Here is a Bandol that you can drink in its youth, or sock away in the cellar.  Intense notes of red berries, provencal spices, and hints at licorice.  Not in the least bit jammy despite being cropped at 26 hl/ ha, this has plenty of layers of flavor and great length.  If you do drink it now, decant for an hour or hold in your cellar till 2022.
$29.99 BTL. / $359.88 CASE / ONLY 2 CASES AVAILABLE

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A NEW ZEALAND SAUVIGNON BLANC  NOT TO BE MISSED
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2008 CHURTON SAUVIGNON BLANC
If you’re one of those folks that thinks that all Sauvignon Blanc’s taste the same, then it is time to try Churton.  This producer located in Marlborough is crafting some of the best Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand.

What makes Churton different?  It starts in the vineyard for Churton, with organic and biodynamic principles being practiced. Healthy vineyards and lower yields are primary concerns to Sam and Mandy Weaver, the owners of Churton.  Their vineyards are exceptionally positioned to offer cool climate fruit.

Yet one of the most noticeable differences in the winemaking is the fact that Weaver ferments two batches in different ways.  One is whole-pressed grapes that go under a fast warm ferment in 500 liter French oak barrels, and then matured on its fine lees for 5 months. Another portion of the grapes is treated in a more conventional manner with cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks.  This helps promote a more fruit forward style.  There is a final blending in August before it is bottled.
This is a much finer, elegant version of Sauvignon Blanc than what you might normally be used to. It still has those typical notes of grapefruit, gooseberry, and fine herbs, but with layered texture, less obvious up front fruit, and a long, mineral and bone dry finish. Overall this is an excellent value, and is a must buy for the Sauvignon Blanc fan!
$17.99 BTL. / $215.88 CASE

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DRINKING ALONE?
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2008 WURTZ RIESLING TROCKEN
Bag in a box, the Australians invented it, and well, no one has perfected it until now.

The fact remains, there are great advantages to a wine that comes in a blatter in a box.  Take my life for an example.  I work everyday except for Sunday.  At the same time I have a thirsty wife at home.  She likes to unwind with a glass or two when she gets home.  Often times she would open a bottle of white wine, only to see half go unused and oxidize overnight.  That’s where the box comes in.  White wine (and red) stays fresh in that magical box for around 6-8 weeks.  Frankly this is a great solution to all our wine wasting at home.

The problem has always been getting good quality wine in those boxes.  So I was very excited when I discovered this delicious dry Riesling from Dirk Wurtz and Hubertus Weinmann of Wurtz-Weinmann, a producer founded in the Rheinhessen in 2000.

Dirk Wurtz is kind of a big deal in the German wine world as he was winemaker at the very famous (and deservedly expensive) Rheingau producer, Robert Weil.  In the Rheinhessen some very exciting wine is being produced these days, but since the secret isn’t quite out of the bag, one can still find some excellent values.

This Riesling “bag in box” is the perfect example of an excellent value from the region.  Coming from loam and limestone soil, this dry Riesling carries only 12% alcohol making it pretty light on its feet. Hints of flint and spiced pear on the nose lead into a zingy palate full of red apple and lemon peel.  This is fresh and very easy to drink.

Each box contains 3 liters of wine, or four bottles total. Considering that breaks down to $7.50 a bottle, I would consider this an excellent value.  Buy this because you want a nice white wine around the house for those nights when you just feel like a sip.
$24.99 PER 3-LITER BOX / ONLY 6 BOXES AVAILABLE

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COLLECTOR’S CORNER PART 1
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2006 MAS DOIX PRIORAT “COSTERS DE VINYES VELLES”
One of the top wines of Spain year in and year out is this brilliant Priorat from Mas Doix. This historical winery can trace its roots back to the 1800’s.  It is located near the village of Poboleda, which is an area where Carignan (a.k.a. Cariñena) excels.

The winery produces two wines, Salanques, which is a terrific wine in itself from “only” 20-80 year old vines (please inquire as I have a small allocation of this,  also highly rated and a fraction of the price).    Yet the gem of the estate, and one of Spain’s most collectable wines is the “Costers de Vinyes Velles.” This old vine plot  has  100 +-year-old Cariñena vines, and 80-90 year old Grenache vines in it. 2006 is a blend of 48% Garnacha, 50% Cariñena, and 2% Merlot.

Each year I only get one six-pack case allocated to my shop.  So if you are a wine collector, you may not want to miss this incredible wine!

“The 2006 Costers de Vinyes Velles amps it up considerably. It yields an enthralling, sexy/kinky bouquet of toasty new oak, liquid minerality, lavender, incense, and wild berries. Complex, elegant, and La Tache-like, it appeals to both the senses and the intellect. It is a remarkable effort that should evolve for 5-7 years but is difficult to resist now.
97 Points, Jay Miller, The Wine Advocate.”
$118.99 BTL. / $713.94 SIX-PACK CASE – ONLY 1 CASE AVAILABLE

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COLLECTOR’S CORNER PART 2
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2005 VALENTINI TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO
The one thing I know from my wine exploration over the last decade is that the truly “epic” wines of the world you know when you taste them.  There is another level, dimension and breadth of complexity to them as soon as you stick your nose in the glass and the wine glides across your palate.

The other thing I know is that these truly great wines of the world come in a multitude of varietals, some which may surprise you.

One of Italy’s greatest wines is this white wine made from the Trebbiano grape in Abruzzo.  The late Edoardo Valentini was secretive in his production methods at his estate, which traces its history back as far as the mid 1600’s.  The family was known to estate bottle their wine as early as the beginning of the 1800’s.

When Edoardo Valentini took over the estate in the 1950’s, he maintained a tight-lipped stance about his production methods and wines.    Edoardo never spoke to the media or submitted samples.  He simply wanted to make his wine on his own terms.  Around Italy, and soon after in the best restaurants around the world, a badge of honor was to be able to get a small allocation of Valentini Trebbiano.

Edoardo Valentini passed away in 2006.  His last full vintage of producing wine was with the ’05 vintage.  His son Francesco Paolo Valentini has taken over, and is not changing a thing.

I’ve only had a chance to taste a Valentini wine twice in my career, and each time it was clear the level that these wines are at.  Any fan of unique white wines owe it to themselves to try a Valentini Trebbiano d’Abrruzo.  Trust me, it’s worth every penny!

“Bright, pale yellow. Deep but still closed nose hints at lemon, green apple and crushed stone, with a distinctly herbal element. Then broader in the mouth but high in acid, dry and not yet filled in, only hinting at the intensely concentrated lemon, chlorophyll, quince and honeyed stone fruit flavors. Finishes with wonderful purity and outstanding length. More backward and minerally than just about any other Italian white wine at a similar stage of development: I suggest cellaring this for a couple of years, then enjoying it for a decade after that.  92(+), Ian D’Agata, International Wine Cellar.”
$112.99 BTL./ $1355.88 CASE- THIS WINE IS BEING OFFERED ON A PRE-ARRIVAL BASIS , IT  WILL ARRIVE IN 3-4 WEEKS

–
Craig Perman
Perman Wine Selections
802 W. Washington Blvd.
Chicago, IL 60607
Phone 312-666-4417
Fax 312-666-4487
craig@permanwine.com

Hello,

Before we get started with today’s great newsletter a couple of last minute notes.

Spots are still available for tomorrow’s winemaker dinner with Steve Doerner from Cristom Vineyards in Oregon.  It promises to be a great night of food and wine, so I hope you can make it.  Below are the key details.  For any questions, don’t hesitate to send me an e-mail or give me a call.

Due to my attendance at this dinner Perman Wine Selections will be open tomorrow, Wednesday, September 2nd from 11 a.m till 6 p.m.

When: Wednesday, September 2nd @ 6:30 P.M.
Where: Spring Restaurant, 2039 W. North Ave., Chicago, IL
Cost: $125 per person, all-inclusive
Reservations: call Spring at 773-395-7100

Also, as most of you know, this Friday I head out on a vacation.  I will have three guest stars filling in for me at the store, good friends who know lots about wine and will give you probably better service than I do!  Below are the days and hours that the store will be open while I am gone.  Remember, I will be closed during the upcoming weekend, so if you need supplies, stop by on Thursday or during limited hours on Friday.

Store hours this week and while Craig is on vacation

Wednesday, September 2nd – 11 AM till 6 PM
Thursday, September 3rd – Noon till 9 PM
Friday, September 4th – Noon till 5 PM
Saturday, September 5th – Closed
Monday, September 7th – Closed
Tuesday, September 8th – 3 PM till 9 PM
Wednesday, September 9th – 3 PM till 9 PM
Thursday, September 10th – 3 PM till 9 PM
Friday, September 11th – 3PM till 9 PM
Saturday, September 12th – Noon till 9 PM

I hope you have a great Labor Day weekend, and I will see you when I get back.

Best wishes,
Craig

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New Arrivals from Beaujolais producer Clos de la Roilette

Beaujolais leads a schizophrenic existence.  For many producers using carbonic maceration to produce a fruity, simple and soft wine is all that is hoped to achieve.  For some, classic vinification from specific villages speak of the notion of terroir and achieves wines of great drinkability and supreme complexity at the same time.

The Coudert family owns a privileged vineyard in the appellation of Fleurie.  They purchased the property in 1967, after it had fallen into disrepair.  East facing vines, with a high average age, face onto the Moulin-a-Vent appellation.  In fact, the appellation of Fleurie before it was created was part of this appellation.  After the re-classification, the old owner was upset that his vineyards had found their went into this yet unproven region.  Instead of putting Fleurie on his label he renamed his wine after his racehorse Roilette, simply calling it Clos de la Roilette. He halted sales in France and shipped to other parts of the world instead.

Fleurie has since made it back on the label under the Coudert’s.  This is now one of the most reliable estates in all of Beaujolais, and after a brief hiatus from the Chicago market, it is back!  The clay and magnese soils produce a rich style of Fleurie, and the old vines, natural yeasts, low-yields and hand crafted winemaking produce incredible quality Beaujolais at very fair prices.

Two offerings are available from Clos de la Roilette, one of which I special ordered for you out there in e-mail land.  Experience great Gamay from a great producer!

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2008 CLOS DE LA ROILETTE FLEURIE
Cru Beaujolais is the name that applies to Gamay from Beaujolais from a particular village.  While most wine simply labeled Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages often fetches prices in the $10-$20, good Cru Beaujolais typically finds a price point of $25-$35.

Clos de la Roilette is simply one of the top values in Cru Beaujolais while at the same time being among the best.  The other phenomenon of Cru Beaujolais is its ability to age.  This wine in particular can gain in complexity with 3, 5, or perhaps 10 years of bottle age on it.

I tried the ‘08 again last week and although a little tight and jumbled from traveling, it displays that typical cassis and red berry fruit, along with fleshy ripeness and soft tannins.  Whether you love great Cru Beaujolais or need an introduction, you might as well start with one of the best.
$19.99  BTL. / $239.88 CASE
$39.99 PER MAGNUM – ONLY 5 MAGNUMS AVAILABLE

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2007 CLOS DE LA ROILETTE FLEURIE “CUVÉE TARDIVE”
The great thing about working closely with my distributors and importers is that often times I get to land a few special cases of something special that normally would not have made it.

When the local distributor was putting together their order with Clos de la Roilette, I made it a point to request a couple cases of the very special “Cuvée Tardive.”  Only made in the top vintages this is a selection of some of the oldest vines of the estate aged in old Burgundy cask.  The name of the cuvée implies that it needs time in the bottle to develop.

So if your a real Beaujolais geek, unite and grape a few of the 24 bottles that came to Chicago.  Give this a minimum of five years in the bottle, drinking from 2013-2022.
$23.99 BTL. / ONLY 24 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2005 QUINTA DO CRASTO DOURO RESERVA “OLD VINES”
Every December the Wine Spectator magazine comes out with their “Top 100” list, a list of their favorite 100 wines of the year.  Some of the wines that make that list are available for sale, although they quickly get snapped up.  Many of those will be released later down the line.

Such is the case with the #3 wine on last years “Top 100” list, the 2005 Quinta do Crasto Reserva “Old Vines.”  This past week, a few cases of this terrific wine made it to the Chicago market.

The significance of this wine on the list shouldn’t go unnoticed.  This was the first time the publication had put a non-fortified Portuguese red in the top 10.   Well it’s about time!

Quinta do Crasto has been around since the 1600’s, with the Roquette family taking over the vineyards and winery located in the Douro region for over 100 years.  Quinta do Crasto is one of Portugal’s top producers of table wines, starting production of these over twenty years ago.

The ‘05 Reserva “Old Vines”” like many Portuguese reds is a blend of multiple varieties, in this case over 25 different grapes go into its production.  The 70 year-old vines are grown in the famous schist soil of the Douro.  The grapes are hand harvested and sent to the winery for strict sorting.  Alcoholic fermentation is done in tank before being aged for 18 months in a mixture of mostly French oak barrels with some American oak as well.

Full-bodied and rich with a mixture of black fruits, tobacco, mineral, baking spices and chocolate.  The tannins are certainly present now, but will subside with a little time in bottle.  Full-bodied red wine lovers, should not miss this!
$43.99 BTL. / 24 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2007 DOMAINE DE ROALLY VIRÉ-CLESSÉ
If you love white Burgundy you must and I mean must stock up on this great wine from Domaine de Roally.

The Mâconnais region in Burgundy has gone beyond a place that one used to seek for value Chardonnay from France into a competitive region with, gasp, dare I say similar quality to some very good village and Premier Cru level wine from places like Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault.

Gautier Thévenet took over this historic domaine in 2000 from previous owner Henri Goyard.  A very small domaine of under ten hectares, the old vines in prime parcels is part of what drew Thévenet to it.

Thévenet pushes the ripeness levels at Domaine de Roally, and like some of the other top producers in the Mâconnais, his wines contain small, almost unnoticeable amounts of residual sugar.  Because of this, before 2003 he wasn’t permitted to use the Viré-Clessé label on his bottles.  This is one of the dumb bureaucratic laws that you will see in France from time to time.

When 2003 came the rules changed permanently because of the vintage.  That super hot vintage made virtually every grower in the region deal with wines with residual sugar, and the A.O.C. governing body had to change the laws.

The 2007 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé is a brilliant example of Chardonnay.  The nose and palate are very complex with layered notes of flowers, apple, pear, and hints at hazelnut.  It offers medium weight, a super silky texture, and perfectly integrated oak notes.  Just because there is measurable amounts of residual sugar doesn’t mean it’s sweet, this is bone dry on the palate with great richness.
Poussin (baby chicken), wild mushrooms, cream, and a bottle of this, now we are talking!
$23.99 BTL. / $287.88 CASE

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2005 FORLORN HOPE “GASCONY CADETS” PETIT VERDOT
I had a terrific meeting and tasting with Matthew Rorick of Forlorn Hope the other day at the store.  A longtime winemaker, he is currently the winemaker at Elizabeth Spencer and recently took on his own project called Forlorn Hope. He has trained all over the world: in New Zealand at Craggy Range, in Chile at Errazuriz, and in California at places like Peter Michael and Dashe Cellars.

Matthew loves his Forlorn Hope project because he has taken on the challenge of producing wines from grapes that aren’t necessarily the norm in California.  What I tasted yesterday was a line-up of wines both red and white, that really spoke to me in terms of their uniqueness and their undeniable great taste.  Hard not to write up all of them, but here today we have a full-bodied red for “BIG” red wine lovers.

Pretty rare to find a wine with 100% Petit Verdot, but Mathew found a great source for the grapes in the Suisun Valley, Southeast of Napa. The region is kind of like the bastard stepchild of California, with famous producers secretly purchasing some of its fruit because they love it, but yet ignoring its presence.  That’s what intrigued Matthew about it.

What I liked about it was that “Gascony Cadets” shows a really complex nose combining leather and earth tones with dark plum fruit.  The wine is also rich on the palate with sweet blackberry fruit and slowly mounting tannins.  This is a very substantial wine, and will be great for those “BIG” red wine lovers that I was talking about earlier.  Only 152 cases of this were made, so what are you waiting for?
$34.99 BTL. / $419.88 CASE

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2006 LACKNER-TINNACHER WELSCHRIESLING
The mysterious variety of Welschriesling can be found in places like Albania, Italy (where it is called Riesling Italico), Romania, China, and Austria.  Despite its name, the varietal has no relation to Riesling.  Its origin has been argued in wine-geek land to no conclusion.

What we do know is that Welschriesling reaches its apogee in Austria.  It thrives on warmer regions within Austria, as the extra ripeness helps reduce its natural high acidity.

This delicious wine comes from southern Styria, a region located on the Slovenian border. This area is known for its aromatic and mineral rich white wines.

Lackner-Tinnacher has been around for just a little while, the family has owned the estate since 1770!  Fritz Tinnacher is a careful farmer, cultivating his vineyards through the process of integrated farm management.  To the layperson that means that he allows for a permanent green cover over the vineyards to allow the vines more nutrients.  This careful farming shows through in the purity of the fruit.

A mineral rich nose with hints of herbs and a lemon / lime note, it kind of reminded my of Sprite, only in a good way.  Laser like on the palate, with great precision of fruit.  Notes of melon, citrus and saline, with thirst quenching acidity.  A great white for very simply prepared seafood.  This is on a great price break, so take advantage!
$14.99 BTL. / $179.88 CASE – NORMALLY $21.99 BTL.

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2008 LEASINGHAM RIESLING “BIN 7”
Not everyone in the world shares my excitement for the great dry Riesling of the world, but if you do then you must give the Clare Valley its props!  Without a doubt the Clare Valley, located north of Adelaide in South Australia produces the world’s best values when in comes to the dry side of this varietal.

I have several “favorites” when it comes to producers in the Clare: Jeffrey Grosset, Pikes, and certainly the historic winery called Leasingham. They have been around since the late 1800’s, and over the years some of Australia’s greatest winemakers have been at the helm including Tim Adams, Peter Rumball, Brian Barry and Tim Knappstein.

Today this great winery is in the hands of Simon Osicka, who grew up on a winery, and has made his name at places like Jack Mann and Houghton. These names might not mean much to you if you follow the American side of famous Australian wineries, but in that country itself, these are very famous names.

If there ever is a time to try a dry Riesling from Australia and the Clare Valley in particular it would be from the ’08 vintage.  This is one of the better vintages for the varietal in the past few years.  The ’08 Leasingham “Bin 7” is a super refreshing style of Riesling. Bright aromatics combining trademark talc notes along with plenty of lime and other citrus.  Laser beam clarity, with big time acidity and passion fruit notes on the palate.  Great length, this is easy to sip on its own, but would be great with a spicy Thai crab noodle dish.  It is just impossible to find dry Riesling of this caliber for this price anywhere else in the world.
$15.99 BTL. / $191.88 CASE

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COLLECTOR’S CORNER
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2007 MARCOUX CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE
Each week I get asked by collectors about some of the great ’07 Southern Rhône reds.  This has been the hot item of the year, and a lot of the great wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape are getting snapped up quickly.  I know because I was able to sneak three cases away of this from the distributor, and two are gone already.  The third case I bring to those out there in e-mail land.

This is a long time family run estate, with two sisters Catherine and Sophie Armenier at the helm.  This is an organic, biodynamic estate, that overall I would call very traditional in style.  No new oak is used, rather cement tanks and neutral wood.  In Robert Parker’s book called “The World’s Greatest Wine Estates” he mentions Marcoux as one of these selections, and I would have to concur. I personally have been drinking these wines for many years and can attest to their beauty and longevity.

I will be keeping my eyes peeled for some other great ‘07’s, but for now, don’t miss this!

“The dense ruby/purple-hued 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape’s gorgeous bouquet of crushed blackberries and black currants intermixed with a smorgasbord of spring flowers, truffles, licorice, and honeysuckle is followed by a full-bodied, velvety-textured wine with excellent freshness and vibrancy for a wine of such extraordinary fruit depth, body, and intensity. It should be drinkable in 3-4 years, and last for two decades or more. 92-94 Points, Robert Parker.”
$65.99 BTL. / $791.88 CASE – ONLY ONE CASE AVAILABLE

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Craig Perman
Perman Wine Selections
802 W. Washington Blvd.
Chicago, IL 60607
Phone 312-666-4417
Fax 312-666-4487
craig@permanwine.com

Hello,

A midweek newsletter for you packed with some great bargains and great treasures.

An important note to all wine, beer and liquor consumers out there in e-mail land.  Effective September 1st, 2009 the State of Illinois has passed the largest increase in alcohol tax in the state’s history.  No need to freak out, but all wine, beer and liquor will be raised in price come that date.  The greatest impact this has is on two types of items, liquor and inexpensive wine.  Expect most liquor to go up at least $1 or $2 a bottle and maybe a little more.  When it comes to inexpensive wine, $10 bottles become $11, and that is a significant from a percentage aspect.  What will happen to the “Six for $60?”   I just plan to roll with it for a bit and see if it effects my buying options.  So this month it may be worth it to stock up on a few items before they go up in price.  It’s not doomsday, but worth noting.

Another important note regarding the time period of September 4th – September 13th.

I’m going on vacation!

Heck yeah, I haven’t had a week off since I opened my store two years ago.  Nobody likes “Cranky Craig,” and to avoid this from happening its time I recharged my batteries.  The store will be open limited hours on some of those dates I am gone, and manning the store will be guest “winos.”  Some very knowledgeable people who happen to direct the wine programs at places like Spring and Spiaggia will be subbing in.  In total these folks have 25+ years in the business, so you will be in good hands.  Please make sure they don’t drink all my booze!  Limited store hours will be announced in a week or so.

Hope you find some magical treasures below!

Cheers,
Craig

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2005 PAUL LEHRNER ST. LAURENT
If you like Pinot Noir and haven’t discovered Austrian reds then you are certainly missing out. I’m not going to argue that some of the local Austrian varieties like St. Laurent, Blaufränkisch, and Zweigelt are exactly like your favorite Russian River Pinot or bottle of Chambolle-Musigny.  Yet when it comes to wine, texture and acidity have more to do with how you enjoy wine than the varietal name on the label.

So Pinot fans, I am begging you to start hitting up some of the great Austrian reds.  This St. Laurent is the perfect way to start. For one, Paul Lehrner happens to be one of the top producers in the Mittelburgenland region. Philosophically, he doesn’t want to make over-oaked or over extracted wines, he is all about finesse.

The other incentive to start is that I found three cases of this wine sitting at the distributor for long enough to make the bean counters nervous.  So they got it off the books and sent it to me for a great price.

Your discovery into St. Laurent should note that some researchers felt that this could be the same grape as Pinot Noir, but that notion has been refuted since. What we do know about the grape is that it ripens a little earlier than Pinot Noir, it has thicker skin, and it tends to offer dark berry aromas, sometimes leading into a real plumy characteristic.  It is an easy grape to over ripen, and that is where the skill of Lehrner comes through.

What’s best about this wine is that it has depth and richness, while at the same time good freshness and drink ability.  It drinks great on its own, and is excellent with lots of food, although I have a hankering to try this with a chicken mole dish.  For $16.99 instead of its normal $30 price point, here is a perfect opportunity to give this terrific St. Laurent a try!
$16.99 BTL. / ONLY 36 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2007 CHÂTEAU DE LA LIQUIÈRE FAUGÈRES “LES AMANDIERS”
Excited about the Languedoc?  Well so am I, as well as most of the wine press and wine geeks around France.  The Languedoc is geographically large, and small producers having been laboring the last three decades creating thumbprints in their respective regions.

One of the most exciting regions within the Languedoc for me is Faugères, with its predominantly schist laden soils and warm climate.  Much has been improved in this region and many, including myself would argue that the Vidal family is one of the guiding lights in this quality revolution.  In the 1960’s the Vidal’s were the first to bottle their wines in the region.  Today the new generation pushes further with organic viticulture, push to prevent over ripeness, and their push to make the whites of the region well known.

Château de la Liquière makes around ten different wines.  “Les Amandiers” is a blend of 30% each Carignan and Syrah, and 20% each Grenache and Mourvèdre from younger vines grown on Schist soil. The wine is aged in vats for eight months.

Aromatics combine hints at tomato leaf and wild thyme, along with red berry fruit and spice. Fresh and fruit forward on the palate, with plenty of savory herbs adding to its complexity.  As we head into the home stretch of grilling season, this would be great with some grilled hangar steak served along side a grilled vegetable and herb terrine.
$12.99 BTL. / $155.88 CASE

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2008 TENUTA DELLE TERRE NERE ETNA ROSSO
It almost seems like I am going to have a Nerello Mascalese of the month club, with my inclusion of one in almost every other newsletter.  What can I say, I think it is a grape worthy of inclusion in your wine consumption habits.

Growing the grape on the active volcano of Mt. Etna in Italy is not necessarily an inexpensive process.  So it is rare to see good examples at everyday type of prices… that is until now.

When I first opened my store I sold the 2006 vintage of Terre Nere’s Etna Rosso for $15.50. Now, the agent and owner Marc De Grazia has left its importer, Vin Divino, and is working directly with a Chicago distributor.  The prices are even better, and this makes it one of the best values for Italian reds that I have tasted in some time.

If you haven’t tried a wine from Mt. Etna, now you have no excuse.  Combining a truly unique soil and climate, the Nerello Mascalese grape is often compared to Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, and even Syrah.  I have a hard time with grape comparisons, and choose not to weigh in on the debate.  Instead let me tell you about the wine.

The majority of grapes that go into this wine come from at least 40 year old vines.  The altitude is fabulously high, making for warm days and very cool nights.  The grapes are harvested in late October, making it one of the last areas in Italy to harvest.  The Etna Rosso bottling is fermented and aged in oak, 25% of which is new French oak.   Pour the ’08 into a big Burgundy glass and enjoy the explosive aromas of Morello cherries, lavender, and thyme.  Silky upon entry on the palate with a mixture of dark and red berries, it then firms up with medium tannins and a long savory finish.  There is no doubt that this is a ripe wine, but it carries itself with great balance.  An incredible value!
$13.99 BTL. / $167.88 CASE

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2005 BAUMARD!
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Hello Loire white wine fans, limited quantities of two exquisite wines from Florent Baumard of Domaine des Baumard are available in Chicago, and simply should not be missed.

2005 DOMAINE DES BAUMARD SAVENNIÈRES “CLOS DU PAPILLON”
If you love great dry Chenin Blanc then you would be remiss if you didn’t stock up on this great vintage of “Clos du Papillon” from Baumard.  Savennières vies with Vouvray for producing the top dry Chenin Blanc of the Loire Valley of France.  Vineyards like Clos du Papillon, Roche-aux-Moines, and Coulée de Serrant are known as the best in the A.O.C.

There may be some scoffs and arguments when I say this, but in my opinion Baumard’s “Clos du Papillon” is the best wine of the appellation year in and year out.  Florent Baumard took over from his father Jean many years ago, and continued the theme of make pure, mineral and focused wines. I often describe his wines as having laser beam focused flavors, as these wines are so linear that you can really taste every component.

Baumard owns roughly half of the 14 hectares of the “Clos du Papillon” vineyard.  Composed of slate and limestone, the soil gives way to a style of Chenin Blanc that has both precise citrus flavors, mineral and yet a richness that gains with years in the bottle.  You can always drink a Baumard “Clos du Papillon” right from the get go, but its evolution will provide for fantastic surprises.

The ’05 vintage provided more warmth than ’04, and ultimately landed Baumard with two back to back exceptional vintages.  Baumard suggests that the ’05 may have a little more in the tank in the end, but only time will truly tell.

Whatever the case, you will find notes of orange, pear, flowers and mineral on the beautiful nose.  Medium weight in terms of richness on the palate with plenty of acidity and a very long finish. This is easy to drink now, but having had a few older vintages it makes sense to buy several to drink through 2020+.  Oh, and if you are just getting started with putting this in the cellar, I still have some of the magnificent ’04 hiding in back at the same price!
$29.99 BTL. / $359.88 CASE

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2005 DOMAINE DES BAUMARD QUART DE CHAUME
This is one of the world’s greatest dessert wines and one of the greatest of France.  When all is said and done it also happens to be one of the greatest dessert wine values.

The appellation of Quart de Chaume sits within the Coteaux du Layon appellation.  There is only about 40 hectares of land in total in the region, which means when there are vintages which produce botrytis, only a few thousand cases are made from the entire appellation!  Yields are restricted to a paltry 22 hl/ha, but usually producers don’t even attain that level.

Yet amazingly a great Quarts de Chaume is never heavy.  Yes, its honeyed with a citrus marmalade tone often taking over, but it always has great acidity.  To me its way more enjoyable to drink than most Sauternes.

Baumard is a master at Quarts de Chaume, and has now made two superb vintages in a row with ’04 and ’05.  It has been interesting to hear what others are saying about these two wines, some reviewers with bigger scores in ’04 and others with bigger in ’05.  I’ve tasted them both, and they are both great in their own ways.  The ’05 is much richer in texture, with notes of white peach, grapefruit, vanilla, and herbs on the nose and palate.  It is incredibly long, with sneaky acidity.  I have enjoyed some amazing older vintages of this wine, and will certainly be sneaking some of this into my own cellar!
$74.99 PER 750ML BOTTLE. / $899.88 CASE

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ODDS & ENDS – BACK ROOM SPECIALS
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Some people ask, “hey Craig what do you have hiding in back there.”  A retailers back room often contains some treasures in limited quantities and I have a few myself.  So below, a few great leftovers with some reviews…

2005 CHÂTEAU FONSALETTE CÔTES DU RHÔNE “CUVÉE SYRAH”
Never seen this before, that’s because it is in every back room of every retail store around the world…if you don’t drink it, I will…

“The 2006 seems jagged at this stage, and I would rather put my money on what certainly will be a great one, the 2005 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone Syrah. Speaking of that wine, I think this is the best cuvee of Syrah that Emmanuel Reynaud has made at the estate. Dense purple in color, with a glorious nose of smoked duck, meat juices, truffle, animal fur, and copious quantities of blackberry and cassis, this wine is super-rich, dense, thick, and juicy, yet all of that fruit and glycerin nearly hides some substantial tannins. This wine should evolve effortlessly for 20-25 years and is a superb expression of Syrah in the southern Rhone. 94+ Points, Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate.”
$89.99 BTL. / 5 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2004 SALICUTTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO “PIAGGIONE”
Easily a top five Brunello producer in my book, so worth the effort for me to buy on pre-arrival.  This is the only case in Chicago, at least that wasn’t grey marketed.  A very special wine from a very special vintage.

“The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione possesses striking depth, transparency and weightlessness as it opens up in the glass. This deeply-scented, layered Brunello offers superb pedigree and class in its ripe red cherries, wild herbs, tobacco, spices and licorice, with a powerful blast of melted road tar that provides the final exclamation point. A firm, structured wine, the profound 2004 Piaggione desperately needs some bottle age, but readers will have a hard time finding a wine with this much sheer class and pedigree. The Piaggione spent two years in medium-size French oak barrels and was neither fined nor filtered prior to bottling. This is a wonderful effort. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.  95 Points, Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate.”
$84.99 BTL. / 12 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2004 IL POGGIONE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
This came and sold out faster than lightening in Chicago.  A great traditional producer.

“The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is awesome. This finessed, regal Brunello flows onto the palate with seamless layers of perfumed fruit framed by silky, finessed tannins. The wine remains extremely primary at this stage, and its full range of aromas and flavors have yet to emerge, but the sheer pedigree of this Brunello is unmistakable. The elegant, refined finish lasts an eternity, and subtle notes of menthol, spices, licorice and leather add final notes of complexity. The estate’s 2004 Brunello is a wine to buy and bury in the deepest corner of the cellar. Brunello is never inexpensive, but this is the real deal, and in relative terms, it is one of the world’s great values in fine, cellar worthy wine. Incredibly, there are 18,000+ cases of the 2004 Brunello, so it should be fairly easy to source in various markets. The Brunello is made from four vineyards ranging from 250 to 400 meters in altitude, all in Sant’Angelo in Colle. The wines from the various vineyards were aged separately in French oak casks prior to being assembled and bottled. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034.  95 Points, Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate.”
$69.99 BTL. / ONLY TWO BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2005 ALAIN GRAILLOT CROZES-HERMITAGE “LA GUIRAUDE”
Best barrels, only in special vintages, a great Northern Rhône Syrah.

“Fresh raspberry and smoked meat aromas are complicated by anise, pungent herbs and cola. Muscular dark berry flavors are firmed by youthful tannins, which add grip and seriousness. Quite different in style from the seductive regular Crozes: Graillot believes that this will age like his 1988 version and that it has the same “tension.” Displays impressive finishing depth and thrust. (Daniel Johnnes Wines; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY)   90(+?) points. Josh Raynolds, International Wine Cellar.”
$54.99 BTL. / 0NLY THREE BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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2004 MARCEL DEISS “BURG”
Co-planted varietals including all 13 Alsace varietals.  A truly amazingly rich white wine that can work with so many foods.  I love this wine.

“Piquant aromas of grapefruit peel, mint and medicinal herbs. Densely packed but tightly coiled, with penetrating, sharply delineated flavors of pineapple, lemon, crushed stone, menthol and spices. Displays a distinctly cool character. Finishes long and dusty, with a repeating medicinal quality. This will need patience. From “austere” dark marne and clay soil deposited just before the last ice age, says Deiss, who considers this his longest-aging wine along with the Schoenenbourg.  91(+?) points. Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar”
$56.99 BTL.  / 11 BOTTLES AVAILABLE BECAUSE I DRANK ONE

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2006 DO FERREIRO ALBARIÑO “CEPAS VELLAS”
I know, I’m weird to have Albariño stashed away but this stuff is just amazing.  200+ plus year old pre-phyloxera vines from near the village of Sanxenxo in Galicia, Spain.  As pleasing to me as almost any Grand Cru Chablis.

“Pale chartreuse-green color. Strikingly complex nose displays fresh lime, herb and white flowers, along with dusty minerals and a suave note of anise. Light in body but concentrated, with intensely spicy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and mounting richness. Leaves sweet melon and nervy lime notes behind on the long, chewy finish. A very impressive wine with admirable balance, clarity and persistence. I’d love to see this in five years. 93 points, Josh Raynolds, International Wine Cellar.”
$39.99 BTL. / ONLY THREE BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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Craig Perman
Perman Wine Selections
802 W. Washington Blvd.
Chicago, IL 60607
Phone 312-666-4417
Fax 312-666-4487
craig@permanwine.com

Hello,

Hope you had a great weekend.

On a typical Perman Wine Selections newsletter, I offer several wine recommendations usually concluding with one or two wines geared for the collector.  The “Collector’s Corner” usually features rare and hard to find wines, and today it doesn’t disappoint.   So make sure you read all the way to the bottom!

With any of my newsletters the basic premise is simple, I offer these wines to you, you order with me via e-mail or phone, and I bring them in based on your order.  I’ve worked in retail that does the opposite, buy a bunch of wine and push it out no matter what the customer’s palate.

I’m not that good of a salesman, and since every one of my customers is important; my primary goal is to make your taste buds as happy as possible so you keep coming back!

One last note for those seeking some amazing “everyday” type wines.  This Friday is the last Friday of the month.  That means its 6 for $60 time…..

I hope you enjoy this week’s newsletter; I am very excited about these!

Cheers,
Craig

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2007 PALAZZONE ORVIETO CLASSICO “TERRE VINEATE”
The little town of Orvieto in Umbria is long famous for its crisp and aromatic white wine named after the village. Grapes like Procanico, Grechetto, Malvasia and others are used in the blend.  The land is quite varied with vineyards offering different soils and expositions.

Few wineries achieve the consistency and deliciousness that Giovanni Dubini of Palazzone does.  What I love most about the Palazzone wines are their aromatic freshness combined with plenty of dimension and complexity.  These are certainly not one note wonders.

Probably the most famous white wine of the estate is the Orvieto Classico called “Terre Vineate.”  This is a five grape blend of predominantly Procanico and Grechetto from some of the estates best vineyards.  Giovanni wants this wine to be representative of the best of Orvieto.  The wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel tank before being bottle.

Fresh aromas of lemon peel, orange, hazelnut, and flowers.  Juicy and fresh with good richness on the palate.  A dry, mineral finish keeps you coming back for another glass.  Delicious stuff!
$13.99 BTL. / $167.88 CASE

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2004 MAS DE GOURGONNIER “RÉSERVE DU MAS” LES BAUX DE PROVENCE
Just like boxing has a “pound for pound” discussion, the wine world has the “dollar for dollar” equivalent.  The “Réserve du Mas” from stalwart producer Mas de Gourgonnier definitely is the champ when it comes to delivery quality for the price.  This incredibly age worthy and delicious red from the appellation of Les Baux de Provence absolutely over performs for its price point.

Luc and Lucienne Cartier’s estate excels at offering organic and delicious red, rosé, and white wine from Rhône varietals, and yes, even Cabernet Sauvignon.  In 2004 the wineries flagship “Réserve du Mas” is an equal blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Grenache aged in French oak.

I tasted this wine last week and was knocked out.  Really aromatic notes of black cassis, licorice, and hints of lavender.  This is classically built on the palate with plenty of chewy structure, but the fruit, earth, spice and acidity is all very well balanced. I noted when I tasted it that all signs point to a great evolution in bottle although this certainly can be consumed now with a big, juicy grilled steak. Drink this with a bit of decanting or age through 2016+.
$25.99 BTL. / $311.88 CASE

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2007 GUIBERTEAU SAUMUR BLANC
A Perman Wine Selections favorite is back with a new vintage.  In March I welcomed to the shop, Romain Guiberteau, winemaker at Domaine Guiberteau in the appellation of Saumur.  Aside from being a terrific guy and very passionate about what he is doing, Romain makes some amazing wines based from Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc.

The still white wines of Saumur are not the most common site to see on retail store shelves or restaurant wine lists in the United States, but they certainly are worth seeking out.  Romain Guiberteau should be one of your stops on this journey.  While it is rare to see winemakers equally adept with both white and red wine, he excels at both.

This past week I tasted the new release of the ’07 Guiberteau Saumur Banc and it certainly didn’t disappoint.  A really tropical nose with hints at banana, white licorice and citrus zest.  Fresh and invigorating on the palate yet still maintaining rich weight. I’d like to taste this alongside scallops as I think it would be an excellent match.  If you are inundated with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio, it’s time you got a new white wine in your life, and this must be tried!
$23.99 BTL. / $287.88 CASE

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2006 TENUTA DI TRINORO “LE CUPOLE” ROSSO TOSCANA
In the wine world sometimes it is easier to do things certain ways.  Say you are wealthy enough to start a winery in Tuscany?  Some would set up shop in Montalcino, others Chianti Classico, or maybe in the region of Montepulciano?  After all, selling wine under any one of those appellation names is like picking a seven footer to be on your pick-up basketball team, it makes life easier.

Andrea Franchetti has never taken the easy way out when it comes to his wines.  His winery is located in Tuscany, south of the famous Montepulciano region, and basically in the hills of the middle of nowhere.  Franchetti saw something in an estate that made him go for it, and take on the risks.

Since its inception, Tenuta di Trinoro has become one of Tuscany’s leading estates, and produces one of the best and most expensive wines of Italy by the same name.  The hills of Franchetti’s estate are planted to varietals like Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cesanese d’Affile, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.

Franchetti is only concerned with making the best wine possible and the varietal blends often change vintage to vintage. If a varietal doesn’t perform well, it is out.  Simple for him, a harder decision for most business oriented wineries.

While the main wine of the estate “Tenuta di Trinoro” is a wine so expensive that most of us will never taste it, there is a way to taste the brilliance of this winemaker.  His “second label” is called “Le Cupole,” and it is an extremely delicious value.

The 2006 vintage is a real stunner, with 47% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.5% Merlot, and 9.5% Petit Verdot.  The vintage was slow to develop, but in the end, the fall provided perfect weather for Franchetti’s usual emphasis on well-ripened grapes.

While every year brings a different style to “Le Cupole,” this year brings an utterly delicious, fun to drink style. That in my book makes it highly recommended.  Floral and spice driven nose with hints at red berries and mineral.  Typical silky style, with a hint at tannin on the finish along with some chocolate and herb notes.  This would make a perfect complement to grilled leg of lamb.
$27.99 BTL. / $335.88 CASE

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COLLECTOR’S CORNER
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1991 R. LÓPEZ DE HEREDIA RIOJA, GRAN RESERVA “VIÑA BOSCONIA”
People often ask what goes into my cellar? One of my favorite wines to age and consume in its prime are the great Rioja of the regions most traditional producer, R. López de Heredia.  The winery was founded way back in 1877, and since the 1890’s they have been releasing a Gran Reserva only in very special vintages.

Want to know how special the vintage has to be?  In almost 120 years of producing Gran Reserva’s, only a little over twenty vintages have qualified so far.  The family decides if the wine is worthy by tasting through its evolution several times up to the eighth year.  If at that point the wine has evolved and shows the breed that characterizes a Gran Reserva, then the wine is kept in the cellars for another decade before its release at age 18.  Yes, this producer ages the wine for you so that you can enjoy it at the beginning of its prime. I say beginning because these Gran Reserva’s can age a really, really long time!  There is never a need to question the quality of a vintage when R. López de Heredia releases a Gran Reserva, history has proved that.

It’s apparent that I skipped the basics in my excitement.  There are a few things you should know about this winery. R. López de Heredia is located in the Rioja Alta section of Spain’s famed Rioja region.  Tempranillo is the backbone of any R. López de Heredia Rioja, but Garanacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano also plays a pivotal role in the blending. The winery has two of the most spectacular vineyards in the region bottled under the names “Viña Bosconia” and “Viña  Tondonia.”  The latter is the more famed of the two, as the vineyard is larger and produces more bottles.  Both are equally good in my mind, just different.

“Viña Bosconia” is all about elegance. The 40+ year old vines in “El Bosque” are harvested all by hand in traditional conical wooden baskets called “comportas.”  The wine is fermented in very large, old oak barrels, and fermentation only occurs with natural, indigenous yeasts.

The 1991 “Viña Bosconia” Gran Reserva was aged for a whopping nine years in old American oak barrels, being racked twice a year.  It is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Grenache, and rest Graciano and Mazuelo.  The wine was then bottled and kept till this spring when it began its shipment across the world.

So what does this wine taste like? Expect very little large scaled primary fruit.  Instead there are amazing layers of gorgeous red berry fruit, flowers, earth tones like mineral and mushrooms, and baking spices to be found on the nose and palate.  This is not a heavy wine, so elegant with great acidity and amazing length.  If you love old Burgundy you will love this!  If you love great aged wine you will love this!  Sadly only 5,000 bottles are produced, of which in Chicago we were lucky to get 84 bottles.  This is how I will celebrate future special occasions! Drink now through 2050.
$85.99 BTL. / $515.94 SIX-PACK CASE

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COLLECTOR’S CORNER – PART TWO
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2004 GIUSEPPE MASCARELLO BAROLO “MONPRIVATO”
How could I possibly follow up a great collector’s corner item like López de Heredia?  It’s pretty easy when I offer an incredible vintage of one of the iconic wines of Piedmont from traditionalist, Giuseppe Mascarello.

While many of the fabulous 2004 Barolo have come and gone through Chicago, there are a few notorious late releasers that I was waiting for.  One of those was the great estate of Giuseppe Mascarello!

To the Italian wine collector there are very few wines that can bring as big of a smile to their face as a great Barolo can.  While Italy has Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo is the real “Burgundy” of Italy.  Its aromatic magnificence in its maturity is probably only paralleled by that of the great Pinot Noir’s of France.  Just like Burgundy, when great vintages like 2004 in Piedmont come around, enthusiasts know it is time to stock up!

The Giuseppe Mascarello name can be traced back as far as the early 1800’s in Piedmont.  Some of the finest vineyards located around the village of Castiglione Falletto are owned by the current generation, Mauro Mascarello, who while in his 70’s, plays a prominent role in the estate still.

These are traditionally built wines, with low yields, longer maceration of skin to juice, aging in large Slavonian oak barrels, and a reverence for wines that develop in time.

While Mascarello makes Barolo from three very famous cru’s (vineyards), including Villero and Santo Stefano, it is his monopole called “Monprivato” that is among the most sought after names in Barolo. The Giuseppe Mascarello estate has always prominently owned land in this vineyard, and in 1990 the entirety of the vineyard became theirs.  In Renatto Ratti’s famous classification of the great vineyards of Piedmont, Monprivato was ranked as one of the eleven greatest.  Located in the village of Castiglione Falletto it is composed of clay and limestone soil.  It is a southwest facing vineyard that is very sunny throughout the day.

The 2004 Barolo “Monprivato” is a must buy for any Barolo fan with the means to cellar it.  Only seven cases came into Chicago of which I took three. This one will go quickly!

“Mascarello’s 2004 Barolo Monprivato is an explosive wine with an almost Pinot-like expression of purity in its fruit. This round, sweet Barolo is extremely primary at this stage, with tons of dense fruit that almost cover the wine’s tannins completely. Subtle overtones of roses and tar develop in the glass, rounding out this majestic wine. Monprivato is one of the world’s very finest values in collectible, age-worthy wine, and the 2004 is another classic in the making. I was blown away by this wine’s sheer balance and harmony, both of which are remarkable considering the wine’s age. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. 96 Points.” Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate
$87.99 BTL. / ONLY 22 BTLS REMAIN!

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Craig Perman
Perman Wine Selections
802 W. Washington Blvd.
Chicago, IL 60607
Phone 312-666-4417
Fax 312-666-4487
craig@permanwine.com

Hello,

In event related notes, Thursday’s tasting with Greg LaFollette of Tandem Winery is sold out. Thanks for all your interest.

Tickets are still available for next Thursday, July 23rd,  as Perman Wine Selections teams up once again with the underground dining group X-Marx to pull off a first of its kind wine & beer tasting and tailgater. That’s right, the parking lot at U.S. Cellular Field will be home to what will be a fun day of food, wine, beer, and of course, baseball! The tailgater will start 11:30 am and conclude at game time (1 pm) when we will take our seats to watch the White Sox defeat the Tampa Bay Devil Rays.    $115 per person, includes the tailgater with food, wine and beer and your game ticket.  Play hooky with us, and enjoy what will be the event of the summer!

For more information or reservations to this event, or any other upcoming Perman Wine Selections tasting don’t hesitate to contact me.

Cheers,
Craig

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2006 CARM VINHO TINTO, DOURO
As many of you know last week I had a Portuguese tasting at the store.  While I worked very hard to have a top-notch line-up of wines, the overall quality level I think impressed everyone in attendance.

One wine that I left out of the tasting, but am very excited about is this wine from CARM, which stands for Casa Agrícola Roboredo Madeira.  As one of Portugal’s most well-respected and oldest wine and olive oil producers, the family run business owns several estates or “Quintas” based in the Douro.  This was one of the world’s first demarcated regions, and a source for some of the highest quality grapes in Portugal.

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