Perman Wine Selections Newsletter – 3/17/10


What’s new at Perman Wine? It seems like everything!

Below is a long overdue newsletter filled with great wines from every corner of the world. Lot’s of new releases of old favorites included, not to mention some more bargains that are happening as wholesalers look to move product.

There is a slightly new look to the newsletter today. The busier I get means less time for writing. What I have done today is highlight four favorite recent arrivals with the more traditional lengthy write–ups. Beneath that are a few others that are very worthy wines, but instead with quick blurbs as a description. I believe if I can shorten the length of these I can get them out more often, which is what my original intention was. So let me know what you think?

Also, I have so many new customers that it is worth explaining how these newsletters work. The majority of these wines are not in the store at the time of writing. Use this newsletter as your purchasing guide. You tell me what you want, I bring it in for you, it is that simple. Not stocking shelves helps me keep prices competitive and also not be a pushy sales dude. That is good news for us all.

Enjoy the newsletter, and as always I am here to answer any questions you have about these wines.



I’m very excited to announce the new release of one of the top red wine values of Catalunya in Spain. Acústic Celler is the result of the hard work of Albert Jané, who grew up in a wine family, later to start a small project dedicated to the old vines of the Montsant region.

This is the fourth vintage of Albert’s main wine, Acústic. He uses 40–65 year–old Garnaxta and Samsó (Grenache and Carignan) vines to blend into this wine. His cellar space in the tiny village of Els Guiamets is an old, bare bones, gravity fed space that allows for gentle handling of the grapes.

Vinification is very hands on with strict selection when the grapes come into the winery. Maceration with the skins is done for around 15 days, afterwards he presses in a vertical wooden machine. New and old 225–liter French oak barrels are used for maturation for 10 months.

What makes this one of the shining examples of Montsant is its ability to translate its Mediterranean climate in a balanced manner. The wine has excellent purity and acidity and as seen at a tasting I hosted at the store last year, has the ability to develop over a few years.

For those needing a second opinion, this wine once again receive a 90 point score from the Wine Advocate, an honor it has received each year since its first release. A beautiful Catalan red at a terrific price.
$18.99 BTL / $227.88 CASE – COME TASTE THIS AT THE STORE 3/20/10



If you read the New York Times, Eric Asimov recently wrote a terrific article about the dry white wines of Hungary.

In the article one winery he focused on was Királyudvar, a long time favorite of mine. In fact the ’05 vintage of this same wine was my go to wine when BYOB.’ers came into the store before Schwa.

Tokaj is one of the most historical wine regions in the world. Famous for its dessert wines, a recent and welcomed area of production is its dry white wines. Királyudvar makes a truly complex bottle out of 80% Furmint and 20% Hárslevelü.

The Királyudvar name is a reference to that fact that the property used to provide the King’s court with wine. American business man Anthony Hwang (who also owns Huet in Vouvray) took a giant leap of faith in restoring the property, purchasing great vineyards, and focusing on top quality.

One of the vineyards he purchased is Percze. This vineyard which has lots of red clay and quartz in its soil grows beautiful Furmint, that often avoids botrytis in the early stages of fall. That is why it forms the base for the Sec at Királyudvar.

Trust me when I say that almost everyone that has tasted this has really fallen in love with it. It combines gorgeous aromatics of mandarin orange, lemon peel, and flowers with a rich, but refreshing palate attack that keeps you coming back for another glass. This works so well with such a wide variety of foods, that it is a must for BYOB restaurants like Schwa, which shows such a wide array of flavors.

Unfortunately there is not a whole lot of this around, but in my opinion this is a must try.
$26.99 BTL. / $323.88 CASE



Often times on reality TV shows, there is a big reunion party where viewers get to text in their fan favorite. Well in the Italian wine reality show, the winner of many a fan favorite contest is that of Brunello di Montalcino.

Part of this stems from the fact that many Americans have vacationed in the region, and the fact is that at its best it shows that Sangiovese can be a world–class variety. Purchasing good Brunello is quite confusing to the average consumer. There is a mine–field of overpriced examples.

That is where I come in. Recently, I tasted a Brunello di Montalcino from a producer who I had no previous knowledge of. Fanti Flavio of La Palazzetta owns 18 hectares of vineyards on the south–eastern edge of Montalcino. The winery and cellars are located in Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Flavio is an advocate for Sangiovese made in the traditional ways, with large Slovenian casks used in its aging.

2004 is a much heralded vintage, and in my opinion a vintage that shows some forwardness and offers drinkability now. A very savory wine with notes of cherries, dried herbs such as sage, and red licorice. This has nice structure, and really opens up in the glass, which tells about what a good future it has ahead of it.

Drink now with an hour of decanting, or through 2014+. Brunello di Montalcino is a great wine for the dinner table, and simple grilled steaks do very well with this, especially with some mushrooms in the mix.

In a world of overpriced Brunello this is a refreshing value.
$52.99 BTL. / $635.88


Year in and year out this is becoming one of the greatest values from the Soave appellation of Italy.

For those unfamiliar with Soave, you will need a crash course in Garganega. Like everything in wine, there are no, “this is what it’s about” type things you can say. What can be summarized is the fact that if not careful this variety grows like a weed. One also can say that within the Soave district there are plenty of not so good sites.

Like everything then, one has to go to a trusted producer like Ca’ Rugate to understand how good it can be. The Tessari family has been growing grapes in the region for over 100 years, and eventually in recent times began to produce their own wine. The new winery built and opened in 2002 really pushed the quality level to its highest mark yet.

Three crucial details make “San Michele” a super–high quality Soave Classico. Estate yields are kept lower than most of its neighbors. The grapes come from Monteforte d’Alpone, one of the best areas within Soave Classico. Finally Ca’ Rugate uses absolutely no filler grapes, this is all Garganega here.

Drink this now for its vibrant notes of flowers, stone fruit and hints at almond. It is wonderfully pure and drinks great by itself, although it will pair with very simply prepared shellfish and whitefish.
$17.99 BTL. / $215.88 CASE


I was happy to see this producer finally available in Chicago, as this is one of the kings of Dogliani Dolcetto. This appellation in Piedmont makes some of the most exquisite examples of the varietal.

“Papà Celso” is a shining star in Docetto di Dogliani. When I tasted it, I wrote “classic” a lot in my notes, which is a really good thing. In short, Dolcetto fans should not miss this.
$23.99 BTL. / $287.88 CASE


This is a really fantastic Portuguese dry red, as is the norm, blended from a host of varietals. Quinta do Noval needs no introduction, this is one of the legends of Portugal.

This is the type of red that everyone is going to like, as it is super seamless, with plenty of rich fruit, but also it gets high marks in the drinkability department. This isn’t like drinking Robitussin, like many I taste. Definitely one of the most delicious, everyday type, dry reds from Portugal I have tasted in a while.
$19.99 BTL. / $239.88 CASE



Seriously, why don’t more people drink the great dessert wines of Hungary? Honestly, I would take them any day over the great names in Sauternes. They age as well, they are more elegant, and frankly they are far more complex. Yeah, I said it!

Disznókõ is one of the crown jewels of Tokaj, and their 6 Puttonyos is made from 60% Furmint, 30% Hárslevelü and 10% Zeta. Some really serious work goes into making this wine. Just so you know 2000 is considered an outstanding vintage in the region, and this got all kinds of accolades including 95 Points from Wine Spectator. A superb dessert wine!



Yes, even stuff that shouldn’t ever find its way into the world of discounted items sometimes does. I mean seriously, this is 2002 vintage from Roederer, one of the truly exceptional houses of Champagne!

Vintage Brut is sourced exclusively from the Roederer vineyards, and it’s not just any fruit. Roughly 70% Pinot Noir goes into the blend, coming from Verzenay and Verzy, partially which is fermented in oak. The 30% Chardonnay comes from Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte de Blancs.

Roederer doesn’t age Champagne for you, you have to do it yourself. This beauty, which has been released for well over a year, is still young, but also, oh so scrumptious. Honestly this is a steal for the price, and it won’t last!
$54.99 BTL. / NORMALLY $71.99 BTL.



What is interesting about one of my favorite appellations in the world, Priorat, is that consumers and wine critics alike are starting to find out that many of the big names in Priorat are actually over–ripe crap that won’t age longer than your average goldfish. On the flipside, there are some famous names that have now proven through tastings of older bottles that they are built to last and also show super–complex at all stages of the game.

Clos Mogador is one of those truly legendary wines that is deserving of any Rhône varietal fans heart. This 2006 vintage from Clos Mogador is really an amazing wine. Hard to call anything that is $79 a good deal, but really, this is one of Spain’s greatest wines, and deserves to find a good home. It will drink its best from 2014–2019. 95 points from The Wine Advocate.
$78.99 BTL. / $473.94 SIX–PACK CASE

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