Perman Wine Selections Newsletter – 3/9/11


We start today’s newsletter with some very important and exciting tasting information.

On Friday, March 18th I am honored to have François Servin of Domaine Servin in Chablis coming to the store to pour five of his excellent offerings, with the 2007 and 2008 vintage being represented. Here is how it will work.

RSVP and stop by any time between 5:30 pm and 7 pm for an informal meeting and tasting of his wines. There will be one AC Chablis, one Premier Cru and 3 Grand Cru wines! And the cost to you is free!

Who should come? This event is intended for those that purchase and drink the top producers of Chablis. The wines prices range from $23 – $76, so if this is not your buying price point you, it isn’t for you. While you don’t have to buy, I will be giving preference of attending to those that are serious buyers of Chablis.

RSVP to me today if you want to attend.

On another note, this Friday, March 11th I am having what promises to be an exceptional and rare tasting of older Burgundy at my store. Want to find out what a 12 year-old Vosne-Romanée tastes like? This tasting is for you.

Due to a string of cancellations, what once was sold out now has 5 spots available. The cost is $90 a person, and well worth it based on what I am pouring. Producers like Gouges, Mugneret-Gibourg, Dujac, Bruno Clair, Chandon de Briailles and Pousse d’Or will all be in the house!

If that didn’t get you excited, I am sure some of the wines on my newsletter will.

So let the reading and buying begin!




Anticipation is high for the arrivals of the 2006 vintage Brunello di Montalcino.
There are a couple handfuls of top-notch producers in Montalcino. I got exciting news yesterday when one of those “must buy” producers announced a pre-arrival offering of their wines.

Run by Andrea Costanti and Vittorio Fiore, Conti Costanti is a historic producer known for their traditional style of long-aging Brunello. It is a small property with just under 11 hectares of vines.

This Brunello di Montalcino was fermented in tank for three weeks on its skin before being moved for aging for 36 months in a mixture of French tonneaux (big barrels) and 30-hectoliter Salvonian oak barrels.

A Costanti Brunello is all about red fruits, classic Sangiovese spice notes such as licorice and herbs, and a full-bodied structure. The 2006 vintage is one of the best wines I have tasted from the winery to date.

This happens to be a very good Brunello “value” for its breed – if you have been asking about 2006 Brunello, don’t miss this wine!



Each year I look forward to my small allocation of what I feel is the best Albariño produced – Do Ferreiro “Cepas Vellas.”

There is no secret in Albariño circles as to the genius of Gerardo Mendez, owner and winemaker of Do Ferreiro. He always captures the magic of his “terroir” or “terruño” in each and every bottle.

This is especially true of his very limited production wine called “Cepas Vellas.”

Take 200 year-old ungrafted vines sitting on mainly sandy soil with some broken granite and you have a recipe for this amazing wine. Gerardo uses only indigenous yeasts, which also gives this wine the authenticity of its “terruño.”
When young this shows vibrant aromas, chock full of saline, citrus notes and mineral. Great depth with vibrant acidity and an exceptionally long finish. This is about as complex as Albariño gets.

The reason I said young above is because this wine does have the capability to age. I have had the 2002, 2003 and 2004 recently. Personally I enjoy both young and old, and would encourage people to get a few bottle to enjoy over its evolution.

Sadly, because it is made in such small quantities, I only have 36 bottles to sell.


Last week I had a terrific tasting at my store entitled, “What’s the deal with Sangiovese.” We explored eight different Sangiovese-based wine from different parts of Tuscany.

One of the highlights of the tasting for many was this wine from famed Chianti Classico producer, Riecine. What stood out in this tasting was Riecine’s cool-climate, sleek style against some of the brawny examples from areas like Montalcino, Montepulciano and the Maremma.

Riecine sits on a historic piece of property in Gaiole that was purchased from Badia a Coltibuono in 1971. Sean O’Callaghan has been the winemaker at Riecine since 1992, and he is one of the most talented and respected producers in the region.

Organic viticulture, great vineyard sites, low-yields in the vineyard, with a careful sorting in the winery result in fruit that is really top-notch.

The bottom line is that this is one of the top non-Riserva style of Chianti Classico you can buy for the money. Its elegance and fruit purity make you keep coming back for glass after glass. Don’t miss this!
$21.99 BTL. / $263.88 CASE



I love Austrian wines. Maybe that is why I booked a trip to wine country this May!

Dry Riesling and Grüner Veltliner from Austria are among the world’s greatest white wines. In fact if someone said to me that you could only drink the white wines of Burgundy or the white wines from Austria, I would choose Austria.

If you want to figure out what has me so excited here is your chance to go back in time and buy a four-pack of wine, 4 vintages of the same wine from master Kamptal producer Johnannes Hirsch. Gaisberg is one of his three top-sites and importer Therry Thiese was able to get him to package into a case three bottles each of the four different vintages of Gaisberg.

I have split them up for you. Buy this four-pack and receive a bottle each of 2006, 2004, 2002, and 1998 Gaisberg!

Below are Terry’s tasting notes on these – don’t sleep on this!

2006: Oops, I seem to have used a naughty word in my notebook. “Not just stunning nose but f-ing stunning nose,” I seem to have written. Oh dear, that’s just so not me. Tightly packed mineral and wisteria, molten silver; the palate is almost constricting, crazily tight, ultraviolet; also leesy, and weirdly also chocolate and jasmine and tarragon; it’s a wild ride of neon and flower and mineral; it seems to attach jumper-cables from the glass to your palate.

2004: This is a devilishly complex thing; spicy-salty aromas, ferrous and showing some of the ’04s charred smoky notes; a sizzling spicy palate, thickly juicily mineral-don’t ever let any- body tell you “mineral” is a euphemism for “unripe,” because this (and hundreds of wines like it) is about as lavish as wine gets, only its flavor dialect is mineral, not “fruit.” There’s a note of not-quite-fully-ripe blackberry; the palate really swells and billow and sweetens, reaching a crescendo of lavish iridescent intesnsity. + +

2002: The 2002 is just screaming with great sizzling depth of mirabelle and raspberry. High- toned minerally nose and the palate has the usual sizzling precision and wonderful saltiness. + +

1998: It is astonishing to still be able to get this wine. Want to know why? Because the AUS- TRIAN market was, shall we say, nonplussed by its (almost undetectable) residual sugar! Their loss is manifestly our gain, for this is an Everest among Austrian Rieslings, celestial, prismat- ically delineated fragrances. The palate is a drowning surge of solid stone. Then the fist-full of tight little sugar-berries. After five minutes in the glass, there are UNBELIEVABLE aromatics. Explosively tight and just infrared fruit. How does white wine get better than this? I bought some immediately to send to Hans-Günter Schwarz at Müller-Catoir; “You GOTTA try this!” It was the wine of the vintage for me. + + +”
$245 PER 4-PACK / INCLUDES ONE BOTTLE EACH OF 2006, 2004, 2002, 1998


In over three years of newsletters I have never featured a wine from Montagne-St.-Emilion. Today I felt I must because I love this great-value from Château Rocher Corbin.

Montagne-St.-Emilion is located just opposite of the more famous Saint-Emilion appellation. The weather patterns for the two regions are very similar, as are the grape varietals and soil. One of the biggest differences is the price. You can find exceptional value in Montagne-St.-Emilion!

Château Rocher Corbin owns just under 11 hectares of continuous vines on the western slope of the Calon hillside. Their vineyards have some seriously old vines for the region – ranging from 45 to 80 years-old. Philippe Durand has done an excellent job with this estate, restricting yields and bringing in healthier grapes.

The 2005 is 80% Merlot, with the remainder Cabernet Franc. Gorgeous aromatics with mineral, mint and a mixture of red and dark berry fruit. Medium weight, with hits at tobacco leaf and a long, delicious finish.

Don’t sleep on this great value!
$28.99 BTL. / $347.88 CASE

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