Yesterday, I was tasked with inventorying, consolidating and moving a rather large stash of (mainly) grower Champagne. It is no secret that Perman’s Champagne palate is superlative– the main secret is: we have loads of this glorious stuff and it is unknown to many of our customers, and to this one employee. Until now.
I found a lot of Georges Laval. Like about 15 six packs worth of his very fine Brut and Brut Nature, plus about 5 bottles of the 2005 ‘Les Chênes’. Vincent Laval farms a tiny 2.5 ha estate in Cumières, farmed organically since 1971, a virtual impossibility in the cold and wet climate of Champagne. Laval still employs a Coquard press, an old school relic that most houses have discarded (the laws were changed in 1992 to allow for larger presses, and therefore higher yields) to insure maximum quality for each parcel. This is a 10,000 bottle per year production, so I calculate that we have about 1% of the total planetary production here, in Chicago.
The Laval Champagnes are those of finesse and precision, the opposite of a sloppy, wet, puppy kiss, but maybe something more stealth and sustaining, fine, filagreed if we are all still ok with that adjective.
N.V. Georges Laval Brut or Brut Nature-$65.99
2005 Georges Laval Les Chênes- $159.99