The Wine Wire- Pierre Yves Colin-Morey

About Pierre Yves Colin-Morey

Pierre Yves Colin is garnering a lot of attention in the Cotes de Beaune, and the excitement surrounding his wines is palatable. His name is beginning to be uttered in the same hushed breaths as Roulot, Coche & Lafon. In 2005 he split from his family’s domaine (he is the eldest son of Marc Colin) taking with him his 6ha inheritance. The Colin-Morey label also includes purchased fruit from Puligny-Montrachet as well as some Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet & Bâtard-Montrachet.

Pierre Yves has evolved dramatically as a winemaker since his departure 8 years ago. In response to the growing concerns over prematurely-oxidizing white Burgundies, he has stopped all battonage (lees stirring) and the cellar is not heated to hasten the malolactic fermentations. He is utilizing less new oak, bigger casks (350 L pieces versus the traditional 228 L barrique) and the wine goes through longer elevages (time in barrel). Finally, the bottles are sealed with wax that has not been treated with peroxide. These techniques seem to be working. Both Craig and I have been able to taste through the range of his 2004s & 2006s, both rough years for white Burgundy with very bad reports regarding premature oxidation and we can report happily that nary a rusty, sherry-esque, eggy note was to be found. It is with confidence we present to you our 2010 allocation.

About 2010.

This is an extraordinary vintage, the result of a curious set of weather patterns, and hardship, a true test of the vignerons. During my time there in April of 2012, I was able to taste many of the just bottled 2010s. There is an unusual balance of ripeness and austerity, acidity and fruit, power and finesse. One of the few downfalls of the vintage is that production was down between 40% & 60%, so there is very little to be had. Speak now or forever hold your peace. #wecannotalwaysbewith2010

 

2010 Pierre Yves Colin Morey Santenay ‘Ceps Centenaires’ $49.99 In the lieux dit of Les Champs Claude, there is a particular section of vines that were planted in 1900, thus the ‘Ceps Centenaires’ (century vines) designation. Pierre Yves owns .3 ha of this old vines parcel. Upon sampling this baby in the shop a few days ago, we were struck by its extraordinary concentration and finesse. I have not had a Santenay produced at this level of quality before.

 

2010 Chassagne-Montrachet ‘Ancégnières’ $69.99 Les Enseignères lays underneath the Grand Cru of Bâtard-Montrachet on both the Puligny & Chassagne sides. Pierre Yves has taken a more ancient spelling of the vineyard (starting with the letter ‘A’). Given the stratospheric prices of the 2010 vintage and proximity of the vineyard to Bâtard, this certainly may be one of the steals of the vintage.

 

2010 Puligny-Montrachet ‘Les Folatières 1er Cru’ $139.99 Les Folatieres is a largish 1er Cru, on the same plain and just north of Chevalier. This is the kind of rich succulent Burgundy that will haunt your dreams and because Pierre Yves is not as well known as some other producers, the pricing here is tremendous. We only got 6 bottles!

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