The Wine Wire: “The Back”

I am just going to say, while perhaps the shop seems compact and well-edited, easily navigated when you walk inside, but then there is, what I am going to call ‘the back’.

‘The back’ is like a candy store for wine-minded individuals, but can be wearing on an organized soul. It’s not for public eyes (and believe me, this is a service) but I have convinced Craig to let me bring out and talk about some treasures that we stumbled (literally) upon during my training days. 

2008 Domaine des Croix Beaune, Burgundy, France  $28.99

There are 132.21 ha of vines that can label themselves as village Beaune. And while many of the larger negociant firms are dominate here, there are smaller properties such as this, headed by the young and immensely talented David Croix, that can be found for tremendous value. Most Bourgogne Rouge these days can be had for about the same price!
This wine offers some of the rich sumptuousness expected of 2008: coupled with that silky, light body typical of Beaune. This was a nice Burgundian surprise, unearthed from ‘the back’.

2009 Pardas Collita Roja Penedes, Spain $38.99 

2011 Pardas Sumoll Rosado Penedes, Spain $11.99

Craig blinded me on this wine; after disappearing into ‘the back’, for an alarming amount of time I might add. It was an aromatic little charmer; reminiscent of a serious cru Beaujolais or an incredibly elegant Grenache. The variety was revealed to be Sumoll- a vine on the way out, close to extinction, that the folks at Celler Pardas decided to bring back from the nearly dead. Needless to say, I did not nail the blind.
It is also available in a dry, pink version if you would like your first Sumoll experience to be more economical. There is absolutely nothing wrong with drinking rosado in the heart of winter, and this one is dark enough to masquerade as a light red wine, if you close your eyes.

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