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Ca'n Verdura "Supernova" Blanc '19

Mallorca

Ca'n Verdura "Supernova" Blanc '19

With over 14 million tourists visiting Mallorca each year, the island recently was in danger of losing its unique cultural heritage, including viticulture specifically oriented to the preservation of indigenous varietals. Additionally, the cost of vineyard land has soared with luxury vacation homes replacing old vineyards. The struggle with the mixed-blessings of balancing international success with the retention of the cultural traditions which created the demand in the first place has never been more present.

However, all is not lost. The seeds of Mallorca’s rebirth lie within the new generation of winemakers, farmers, and chefs who are diligently cataloging, recuperating, replanting, and exalting the thousands of years of history pre-dating the boom of modern tourism. Like a Supernova, the modern wine and culinary scene of Mallorca is rapidly reviving itself. 

Enter Tomeu Llabrés and his visionary work with the indigenous Mantonegro grape at his micro-winery, Ca’n Verdura, which he founded in a former auto garage in 2012 in the Binissalem region, located in the north-central portion of Mallorca. Tomeu has demonstrated this ancient variety has incredible potential, creating some of the most ground-breaking wines of the Balearic region.

Placing indigenous grapes in context can be tricky. Still, there certainly seems to be a similar renaissance of native varieties in Mallorca, and one can draw comparisons to what’s occurring in Sicily with varietals like Nerello Mascalese.

Tomeu's ancestral origins can be traced back at least six generations. Just like Bàrbara at Mesquida Mora, Tomeu has traditional vineyards that shares space with other crops such as fruit, nut and olive trees. This is the type of polyculture that is traditional to Mallorca.

The vineyards Tomeu farms were planted in 1958. The soil of Binissalem is cal vermell, red clay soil with limestone, and small to medium-sized galets.  Every parcel is hand-picked and fermented separately, then blended later. Only indigenous yeasts are used, and his vineyards are worked without the use of chemical treatments, farming organically. A key to practicing this type of agriculture is the Levante winds, which blow across Mallorca from northeast to southwest off the island of Minorca, cooling and aerating the vineyards, which are almost always windy.  Tomeu also tries to use minimal to no sulfur while making the wine as well as at bottling.  

Just 10,000 bottles were produced of Ca’n Verdera’s premier white wine, Supernova Blanc, which originates from the best plots of old-vine Moll.  After harvest, 20% of the wine is fermented in 500L French oak barrels, the rest in stainless steel tanks. After five months of aging on the lees, with stirring of the wine in barrels for 3 months, the wine is clarified using bentonite clay before being bottled. 

This complex island white is medium bodied, with a profile of brilliant minerality, citrus, chamomile, fresh herbs, fennel, and white fruit notes, which provide great freshness. With subtle texture and incredible acidity, the wine also has age potential.  Reminds us of truly great Sancerre and Chablis.  

Perman

Spain

Details

Producer Ca'n Verdura
Vintage 2019
Format 750ml
Grape Variety Moll

Acidity

3 / 5

Tannin

1 / 5

Body

3 / 5

Sweetness

1 / 5

Fruity

3 / 5

Funky

2 / 5

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Sounds good!