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Matthieu Dumarcher “Léon & Séraphin” Vin de France ’19

Southern Rhône

Matthieu Dumarcher “Léon & Séraphin” Vin de France ’19

I love the wines of Matthieu Dumarcher. They represent everything that I want to drink in a Rhône varietal wine.

Matthieu was a producer that I basically stalked. I first tasted his wine, actually this wine “Léon & Séraphin” after purchasing a bottle at a small natural wine store in Kofu, Japan. I remember thinking as I first tried it, how it was a wine that showed all the savory characteristics of Rhône varietals but without the overripe, liqueur-like notes that many from the region display.

So I contacted him, and knew that the next time I was in the South of France I would go visit him. That visit was almost ruined by the biodynamic calendar, as Matthieu was bottling according to it and wouldn’t be available for a visit. A change in my schedule allowed me to stop by for a visit.

Matthieu is pretty much a one man show. He started his small winery in the village of La Baume de Transit, because in his search for old-vine vineyards in which he could afford, this turned out to be the place. His grandmother happened to be from the area, and so it was meant to be. He purchased 4 hectares of vineyards, from retiring farmers, who owned fantastic parcels of old-vine Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah. Today he produces about 10 to 20 thousand bottles from a total of 5 hectares.

“Léon & Séraphin” is the only wine he produces via carbonic maceration. It is a blend of equal parts of Grenache and Syrah. He also uses some of his younger vines, up to 40 years in age. These are still incredible low yielding, around 35 hl/ha or the equivalent to what they are allowed for Grand Cru Burgundy. The wine is only aged in tank. Like all Dumarcher wines, he never uses additives. This is native ferment, no enzymes, no filtration, simply no tricks.

2019 gave him low yielding, ripe fruit. The 2019 “Léon & Séraphin” is dark and brooding on the nose, with notes of black cherry, wild thyme and fresh cracked black pepper. Bright and juicy up front, but then firms up with medium tannins, dark fruit, and a long savory finish.

This is a wine well suited to richer fair such as cassoulet or winter stews. It is a fantastic value!

Perman

France

Details

Producer Matthieu Dumarcher
Vintage 2019
Format 750ml

Acidity

2 / 5

Tannin

3 / 5

Body

4 / 5

Sweetness

1 / 5

Fruity

3 / 5

Funky

2 / 5

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Sounds good!